Dive in! Swim with the orcas in Norway

SOME call them sea wolves, others prefer the term killer. Claiming the broadest prey base of any animal, orcas have rightfully earned their reputation for being skilled ocean hunters.

SWIMMING WITH KILLERS

Norwegian entrepreneur Rolf Malnes began offering orca snorkelling safaris in 1996, in the Lofoten Islands where orcas’ prey, herring, returned for two decades to the same fjords. At that time, whale watching was a novel activity; getting in the water with these “sea monsters” was – in many quarters - considered a death wish.

A MOVEABLE FEAST

Where herring go, orcas follow – forcing whale watching tours to shift operations accordingly. After several winter seasons in Tromso, the fish have moved north to fjords around the municipality of Skjervoy.

In December, when sun-starved days stretch into one long polar night, mountains loom like hulking spectres above the tiny, waterside village, which – conveniently – has its own airport. Flights from Tromso take less than 30 minutes, but run infrequently, generally requiring an overnight stay one way. (Accommodation in the aurora capital goes quickly, so I booked an Airbnb – a more convenient and economical option all round.) Otherwise, it’s a three-and-ahalf-hour journey by road.

MY BIGGEST FEAR? THE COLD

A 70 degree latitude north should plunge these fjords into a deep freeze, although the warming effects of the Gulf Stream keep channels ice-free.

But science had done little to ease my anxieties earlier that morning, as I squeezed into padded under-armour and a bulky dry suit. Clumsy gloves and a neoprene balaclava – which made me look like some sort of aquatic crusader – had prepared me for the worst.

In truth, the water is a “mild” 6C – hard to imagine from the discomfort of our sea spray-soaked 12-passenger RIB boat. Fine splinters of half-light groan from far below our jagged horizon. As blasts of hail pelt my skin like a rain-shower of steel nails, I begin to ask myself: why am I here?

That question dangles far longer than I’d like, as we search for a pod willing to accept our company.

TWO TIMES LUCKY

Orca safaris depart once per day, lasting around three to four hours – equivalent to the amount of twilight at this time of year. To maximise my chances, I’ve booked two excursions; no trip, says Rolf, is ever the same.

Multiple calves are born in winter, so it’s not uncommon to see babies porpoising alongside mothers or playfully flicking their flukes in the air. Being so low to the water, we’re at eye level with their dorsal fins as they slice through waves like butter. But it’s my second outing the following day that really delivers the goods.

In low light, herring rise to the surface, and a flock of squawking gulls diving and circling indicate a feeding frenzy is about to take place.

We fly alongside orcas as they surf over whitecaps, firing faster than bullets. Four colossal humpbacks soon join the party, waving their angelwhite pectoral fins with glee. Rolf tells us its time to get in.

IN THEIR WORLD

Sharp and unexpected, the cold is breath-snatching – so too is the spectacle ahead. Flecks of shiny fish scales sparkle like stardust in an underwater universe, where orcas twist and turn with a mesmerising combination of athletic power and balletic grace.

Above the surface, fins slap and feathers flap chaotically. Down here, it’s slow and calm, allowing me to tune into the whales’ communicative clicks, squeals and groans.

There have been no reported fatal attacks on humans in the wild - and as I turn my head, I’m frozen in awe and wonder rather than fear.

Metres away, a humpback the size of a bus blinks at me; given excellent visibility, the ventral grooves beneath its chin are remarkably clear. We lock eyes for less than a second, but it feels like forever.

HOW TO PLAN YOUR TRIP

Visit Lapland (visitlapland.com) offer the Swim with Orca in Norway activity for £217 per person, alongside a wide range of whale watching, dogsledding, Northern Lights, Sami or snowmobiling experiences.

Double rooms at Reisafjord Hotel (reisafjord-hotel.com) cost from £137 per night with breakfast.

For affordable and flexible accommodation in Tromso, visit Airbnb (airbnb.co.uk).