Scottish panoramas An enduring fascination with the secrets of Edinburgh landmark

SUSAN SWARBRICK

THE hump of Arthur’s Seat dominates the Edinburgh skyline. Depending on the angle, it can look like a recumbent lion or the rounded backside of an elephant, its trunk meandering out in front.

When viewed from the south of the city, this lump of grass and rock resembles a crocodile’s snout with jagged teeth and a lone watchful eye surveying the Scottish capital from its lofty perch. If you squint your eyes, you might see the outline of a mythical beast. According to folklore, a mighty dragon used to roam these parts, swooping down from the skies to pick off livestock. One day, after a particularly large feast, it lay down, fell asleep and never woke up again.

Almost everyone who has visited or been a resident of Edinburgh has an Arthur’s Seat story. The extinct volcano in Holyrood Park – which rises to 823ft (251m) – is a beloved haunt among those looking to blow away the cobwebs and enjoy the spectacular views from the top. On a clear day, when the haar doesn’t linger, the entire city lies spread before you, all the way to the trio of bridges that span the Firth of Forth.

While the geology is well documented (lava samples have been dated at 341 to 335 million years old), there are parts of its history that remain shrouded in mystery, not least speculation about the origins of its name, believed by some to be connected to the legend of King Arthur.

One of the most fascinating and chilling tales is that of 17 miniature coffins, each bearing a tiny carved wooden figure, discovered by children playing on Arthur’s Seat in 1836. There have been suggested links to the 19th-century serial killers Burke and Hare who sold corpses to Dr Robert Knox for dissection at his anatomy lectures. It has been posited that the effigies were left by a friend of pair who felt moved to make them as a memorial: 17 victims and 17 coffins.

What to read

One of the earliest literary mentions of Arthur’s Seat is in Robert Fergusson’s 1773 poem Auld Reikie. It appears in the writings of Sir Walter Scott, Frankenstein by Mary Shelley, The Underground

City by Jules Verne, One Day by David Nicholls and Ian Rankin’s Rebus crime novel series.

What to watch

Look out for cameos in T2 Trainspotting, Chariots Of Fire, Ecstasy, The Adventures Of Greyfriars Bobby and the BBC series Case Histories.

Why do you go there?

A mixture of work and pleasure, but mostly work. It is a real home from home, incredibly easy to navigate and every time you turn a corner, you see something new.

The restaurant scene is, in my opinion, the best in the world. There’s the holy grail of restaurants, such as the Michelin three-star Eleven Madison Park and Per Se, as well as real New York staples Bill’s or Keens Steakhouse.

I find it an easy city to work in because the kitchens are well set up and there is always loads of staff to help out.

How often do you go?

I’m very lucky with my job and can find myself there up to four times a year.

How did you discover it?

My first trip to New York was almost 20 years ago in 2001. I organised a surprise trip for my wife Sharon as it was a very special birthday. We ticked off the iconic tourist stuff: Central Park, Empire State Building, Fifth Avenue, Twin Towers, Statue of Liberty, and everything in between.

Purely by chance, I was only home two days and then flew back to NYC to do a Scottish dinner at the Four Seasons. So, in one week, I managed to see the city from both sides.

What’s your favourite memory?

The one that will stay with me was my first time going. I’m lucky I get to see the real New York when working there and meet some incredible people, from parading up Sixth Avenue with 10,000 people on Tartan Day to cooking at the British Consulate. In November, I did a charity dinner in someone’s house in the Upper West Side.

Who do you take?

Mostly I’m on my own or with Sharon. I get to catch up with friends I have met over the years.

What do you take?

Good, comfortable shoes for walking and seasonal clothes. It’s very hot in the summer and extremely cold in the winter – I’ve been caught out before.

SUSAN SWARBRICK What do you leave behind?

I have never managed to take my kids. Hopefully one day.

Sum it up in five words.

Multicultural. Welcoming. Big. Busy. Fun.

What travel spot is on your post-lockdown wish list?

I’m desperate to get back on the road, it’s a big part of my job. I’m scheduled to go to New Hampshire in September and India in January, so everything crossed we are back to some sort of normality by then. Cuba is also on my list. I spent a few days there in December doing events and cookery demos. I’d love to go back and see more.