The Herald - The Herald Magazine
Forest adventure Discover a fascinating
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THIS fine walk begins at Crinan Harbour, one of those places that makes most Scots think “never been there but perhaps one day.” It should be on your wish-list because the whole area of Crinan and Knapdale is fascinating – geologically unusual and littered with ancient artefacts, standing stones, forts and duns. Castle Dounie, the focus of this walk, is an Iron Age fort that straddles a high ridge with sumptuous sea views across to Jura and Scarba, two islands separated by the notorious Corryvreckan and its whirlpool.
Crinan Harbour lies just west of the tiny village of Crinan where the eponymous canal empties out into Loch Crinan. There is a sizeable car park here, just beyond the first few houses as the road turns right into Crinan Harbour. From the car park return along the road, past the junction to a white cottage. In front of it a signposted waymarker points out the route, along a shingly foreshore for a short distance.
Another sign indicates where the path leaves the shore and runs parallel to it for a while through a lovely grove of oak trees. Shortly after a wooden bench the path veers slightly left and begins to climb what appears to be a firebreak through the woods. There is another bench halfway up the hill which may offer a bit of relief.
Enjoy your break, and the views that are now opening up, because you won’t see many more views for a while, and there’s more climbing to be done. At the top of the steep path turn right onto a forestry track and enjoy easier walking to another junction and bench. Turn left here and climb a little more gently now to another, narrower, path that runs off to the right.
I got quite excited at this point for at last we were away from broad forestry tracks and among