Scottish panoramas How a lonely rowan tree on Rannoch Moor became a landmark

SUSAN SWARBRICK

FOR those traversing one of Scotland’s highest and most exposed roads, it has become a beloved landmark: a lone rowan that grows inexplicably atop a craggy boulder on the rain-strewn and wind-lashed expanse of Rannoch Moor. This small, solitary tree can be seen on the left-hand side of the A82, around five miles north of Bridge of Orchy, as the road climbs above the Loch Tulla Viewpoint heading towards Glen Coe.

The roots of the hardy specimen cling to a giant, lichen-covered rock, drawing support and nourishment from the shallowest of cracks. Battered by the elements, the weathered leaves and branches at its crown are testament to the robustness of nature.

How the indefatigable little tree, known as the “Rannoch Rowan”, came to grow here has long been a source of fascination. The most likely explanation is a passing bird dropped a rowan berry and the seed – against the odds – managed to land in exactly the right spot to take root within the boulder. Experts believe its enduring survival is largely due to a lofty perch elevated beyond the reach of ravenous sheep and deer.

The rowan is a tree species that has powerful symbolism in Scotland. According to folklore, planting one near a gate or front door brings good luck and will keep evil spirits at bay. By the same token, it is considered bad luck to cut down a rowan. Rowans growing out of an inaccessible cleft in a rock – such as the one on Rannoch Moor – or those found sprouting from the crevices of another tree, are said to possess even more potent magical powers. These are known as “flying rowan”.

As autumn nears, the nation’s rowan trees are laden with plump red berries. One oft-cited old wives’ tale is that if the berries are in plentiful supply then it portends a hard winter. However, in reality, the quantity of the fruit owes more to a good growing season than predicting what lies ahead. Each September, the Rannoch Rowan produces a harvest of berries that belies its inhospitable environment. Strong, steadfast and tenacious: it is a survivor.

What to read: WH Murray, who penned the classic guides Mountaineering in Scotland (1947) and Undiscovered Scotland (1951), has written about the rowan in his books.

What to watch: Grand Tours of Scotland presenter Paul Murton also speaks fondly about this tree, returning to film it for TV programmes several times over the years.

WHERE IS IT?

Whitby, Yorkshire. The seaside town famous for its 199 steps, annual Goth Festival, and for inspiring Bram Stoker’s Dracula.

WHY DO YOU GO THERE?

Many of my childhood holidays were spent in Whitby, so it feels like a home from home. My inner teen goth loves Whitby’s spooky trappings: the goth guesthouse, the cheesy Dracula Experience, and the antique shop that has real taxidermy bats. I also love the look of the place, from the saltweathered gravestones in the clifftop churchyard to the hodgepodge pot roofs and chimneys. Whitby also has a really, really good independent bookshop.

HOW OFTEN DO YOU GO?

At least once a year, ideally in the autumn, when the town is at its spookiest and most atmospheric.

HOW DID YOU DISCOVER IT?

My parents have always loved Yorkshire: when my little brother and I were children, we would always look forward to holidaying in Whitby, and visiting the nearby villages of Robin Hood’s Bay and Sandsend.

But I think I started to develop my own personal admiration for Whitby after reading Robin Jarvis’ very chilling YA book The Whitby Witches as a teenager. My child’s-eye-view of Whitby as a place of paddling and ice cream disappeared and was replaced by a fascination with the town’s much spookier side.

WHAT’S YOUR FAVOURITE MEMORY?

I have a photograph of me on the prom that was taken by my best friend Leon, on a trip to Whitby in around 2007. Leon was even more of a teen goth than I was (he’d even been allowed to paint his bedroom black), and we had a great time that week. Highlights included eating fish and chips at the famous Magpie Cafe, drinking lots of good Yorkshire craft beer, and daring to climb the 199 steps at midnight.

WHO DO YOU TAKE?

I’ve been most often with my brother, Nick. It’s become something of an October tradition for us to spend at least a long weekend there each year.

WHAT DO YOU TAKE?

I take a notebook everywhere, but it feels especially important to have it with me when I go to Whitby. I find the place inspiring and always come away with pages of scribbled ideas.

WHAT DO YOU LEAVE BEHIND?

I pick up handfuls of sea glass, quartz and shells from the beach – on the last day of every trip I sort through all the flotsam and keep only the “best” bits. The rest I sheepishly return to the beach. If I didn’t, my house would be filled with pieces of Whitby shoreline.

SUM IT UP IN FIVE WORDS.

Atmospheric, friendly, quirky and cheerily gothic.

WHAT TRAVEL SPOT IS ON YOUR POST-LOCKDOWN WISH LIST?

I’ve always wanted to go to Glastonbury (the town, rather than the festival), but never have.

SUSAN SWARBRICK