Scottish Panoramas The storied steel span linking Edinburgh with the north

BARRY DIDCOCK

OFTEN referred to as one of the wonders of the modern world, the Forth Bridge (its official name: the ‘Rail’ bit is a popular addition) is as potent a symbol of Victorian engineering prowess as it’s possible to imagine. Not for nothing was it voted Scotland’s greatest man-made wonder in 2016, the year after this photograph was taken by Herald photographer Stewart Attwood during the total solar eclipse of March 20 2015 – 125 years almost to the day after the bridge was officially opened by the future Edward VII.

From its grand unveiling in 1890 until the opening of the Forth Road Bridge in 1964, it was the only way to cross the estuary that didn’t involve a boat. The Road Bridge has since been largely superseded by the Queensferry Crossing, opened in 2017, but the familiar cantilevered span of the rail bridge with its iconic red oxide livery – a paint colour now know as Forth Bridge Red – still moves thousands of passengers a day across the water. Some will have come from London and be heading for Inverness, grateful (if they have any sense of history) for the hours the bridge cuts from their journey time. Others may be commuters from Inverkeithing heading into the capital for work, or Edinburgh sunworshippers travelling in the other direction and making for the beaches at Aberdour, from where the view back to Auld Reekie is as fine as any.

It’s always worth sparing a few moments for reflection, however. On the many lives lost during the bridge’s construction (73 is the best estimate, most killed by falls or drowning, though eight were saved by rowing boats stationed in the water). On the nerdtastic wealth of statistics the bridge throws up (six and a half million rivets! A total length of 8,094 feet!). Or on the many sights this old bridge has seen, among them the first airborne operation launched by the Luftwaffe against mainland Britain after the outbreak of the Second World War: on October 16, 1939, when 12 Junkers bombers targeting shipping at nearby Rosyth were engaged by Spitfires from 603 City Of Edinburgh squadron. Three bombers were downed, the first RAF ‘kills’ of the war.

Today, the bridge also serves as an iconic backdrop for photo opportunities and brand launches. Sports teams and political groupings are forever gathering in front of it for snaps, and it’s a vivid if impassive participant in South Queensferry’s annual Loony Dook on those (curiously frequent) Ne’ers’ Days when the sun shines and the sky is cold and clear and blue.

The Forth Bridge: made in Scotland, from girders.

What to watch: Alfred Hitchcock’s classic 1935 thriller The 39 Steps.

STYLE AND SUBSTANCE

The Whitebridge Hotel is a charming, homely and stylish Highland bolthole on the south shore of Loch Ness, eight miles from Fort Augustus.

SLEEPING MATTERS

The two-star hotel has 12 en-suite bedrooms. The rooms are comfortable and individual, with some nice design touches – ours had an unusual table made of three classic old suitcases, which I’ve never seen before. The bed was comfy too.

FOOD FOR THOUGHT

The hotel serves traditional pub favourites in the cosy bar such as fish and chips, macaroni and cheese and, for the vegetarians, sweet potato, spinach and chick pea curry. I had the the steak and ale pie, which was up there with the best I’ve ever had, with the beef falling apart on my fork and the veg was crisp and fresh.

My wife had a burger special. Both were top notch. Breakfast is served in an airy dining room and includes continental and traditional cooked Scottish fare. All food is home-made at the hotel.

There is a good range of beers, including West and beers from local breweries such as the Cairngorm, Cromarty and Loch Ness breweries.

The staff take coronavirus rules seriously, and wear masks and visors. Seats and tables are well spaced and there are plenty of hand sanitising stations.

EXPLORE OUTDOORS

You are spoilt for choice for outdoor activities such as walking, fishing, hunting and exploring the south side of Loch Ness. We walked down to Foyers, which is a pleasant stroll of around three miles along farm roads, and forestry tracks to see the famous waterfall at Foyers, once known as Eas na Smùide, or the Smoking Falls. Eminent visitors included Dr Johnson, James Boswell, the Wordsworths, Samuel Taylor Coleridge and JMW Turner. Once the Falls were a destination on the ‘Scottish Romantic tour’. Robert Burns described it described as a “horrid caldron” and “dim-seen through rising mists”.

NICE TOUCH

There are quirky touches throughout the hotel, with lots of unusual objet d’arts scattered here and there to grab your attention such as old cigar boxes, photos and vintage mirrors. The staff are friendly and knowledgeable, and were all Scottish and more than happy to suggest local sights and attractions.

ABOUT THE AREA

The Whitebridge is on the site of a former British Army King’s House, where General Wade’s troops were stationed to build a network of roads across the Highlands to stop any further Jacobite rebellions. A fiveminute walk from the hotel takes you to the White Bridge – a hump back bridge, built in 1732, which pedestrians can still use to cross the River Fechlin. Say hello to the red squirrel that has made the trees in the riverside its home. The South Loch Ness trail, which is is 37 miles long and runs from the outskirts of Torbreck to Fort Augustus, passes through the village, which is more of a clachan really.

A double or twin room costs £90 per night per room bed and breakfast and a family room is £130. Stay for at least two nights in November and get 30% off by quoting Autumn30.

Visit www.whitebridgehotel.co.uk

GARRY SCOTT