The Herald - The Herald Magazine
Ron Mackenna
5/5
They return to their conversation. And they eat it. There’s no further conversation between the two tables apart from a nod and a smile as the student later leaves.
Crikey, I think. How considerate. And then I look at the dishes sprawled before me. Unfortunately being shared with nobody.
A bowl of tabbouleh, the real deal with fresh and chopped parsley mounded high, cracked wheat, olive oil, lemon and cracked pepper; I have come to believe an Arabic restaurant can be judged by the quality of its tabbouleh alone.
This is a great one. There are pastries including kalaj bil jibn and manakeish
Huge windows open onto the Saltmarket, Arabic music gently playing, Lots of chatter. Pleasant place to be. 4/5 cheese, the last like delicate little flat bread toasties, oozing seductively.
“Eat these while they are hot,” the waitress had said as she delivered a plate full of papery, just-fried pastry tubes stuffed with mint and cheese: I didn’t get their name, I don’t even know if I ordered them, but I’m glad I ate them.
Then I move onto the batata hara special sandwich. Cubes of fried potatoes, peppers sauteed til melting like the Italians do, chilli, garlic and coriander wrapped in toasted Lebanese bread and then sliced crosswise. It’s got a real kick too.
I pick at the shish taouk, a dish I only chose because I heard just about everyone
One lady serving tables, quite a few guys in the kitchen. Relaxed, friendly and comfortable vibe. 4/5
Batata harra, cubed potatoes sandwich with garlic £4.50: shish taouk £4.50, £4. Kallaj bil jibem, bargain levels 5/5
in the big family group over there order it as they sat down.
The fat, thick grilled cubes of chicken have an appetising golden crust from the grill, crunch to the bite but inside they are moist, soft, fragrant with lemon and seasoned perfectly.
I feel a moment of greed eating them all. Of course there are dips, yoghurts; a dark red chilli paste so powerful I spread it micro thinly just to minimise burn. Damsqino then?
Making the Saltmarket attractive again.
If you know a restaurant Ron should review, email ronmackennadefence@gmail.com
The shish taouk were going like hotcakes, the tabbouleh was done properly and the pastries tasted super fresh. 8/10