The Herald - The Herald Magazine
Ben Challum A satisfying outing for the
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IHAVE always enjoyed linking mountain walks with historical sites. The historical perspective adds something to the walk and reminds me that most of our so-called wild land areas have not always been so untamed. An understanding of the history of land use and of those who once lived and worked in these areas allows us to fully appreciate what we have today. Indeed, such knowledge sometimes allows us to appreciate who we are today, as Scots.
The ascent of the Munro Ben Challum from Strath Fillan is, at first sight, fairly straightforward and fills a winter’s day very nicely. It also offers the chance to visit what’s left of St Fillan’s Priory, just beside Kirkton farmhouse on the West Highland Way.
Faolan, or little wolf, was apparently the son of Kentigerna, a princess from Ulster, and for centuries after his death it was believed the bones of his left arm held miraculous properties.
Indeed, according to Seton Gordon, the silver reliquary that contained St Fillan’s bones was presented by the Abbot of Inchaffray to the kneeling Scottish army on the morning of the Battle of Bannockburn.
There’s not a lot left to see of the priory, but immediately opposite its ruins the path to
Ben Challum (1025m/3363ft) climbs past a couple of ancient graveyards, crosses the railway line then wriggles its way up over bracken-covered hillocks past the rocky outcrops of Creag Loisgte. The south ridge of the hill is better formed than the map suggests and it’s an easy climb to the south summit. In misty weather you just have to follow the fenceposts.
The first time I climbed this hill that’s exactly what we did. We were youthful and didn’t have much of a clue as to the workings of a map and compass,