Ron Mackenna

with sesame, chilli, ginger and spring onion and served with a zingy Asian slaw. It is succulent. Cheek slappingly flavoured, plentiful and draped with the contents of a fiery sauce pepped with chill flakes (that may or may not be going on the right dish) and overall pretty delicious.

There’s a huge hunk of Scottish brisket too which flakes under the fork and is heaped with another fresh and crisp salad, this time called Seoul crunch, and a cucumber kimchi and then ladled with just about everything else that’s available.

Spiced sweet potato falafel are being picked up and dipped here, there and everywhere.

Food dropped off nice and early, cheery text to confirm. All good.

4/5

Quinoa tabbouleh, beetroot salad and cucumber and radish raita are called into action in ways that were probably not envisaged by their creator – ie fired onto every plate. It’s a dip, fork, taste, pause, ooh that’s good, kinda casual meal. There’s a lightness and a freshness to it too and an unctuous silkiness to the meats.

Clever, of course, to make the main dishes all slow cooked items whose flavours can only benefit from the resting that’s involved with the home delivery gig.

It’s kind of like a Friday night sit-down from the nearest take-away except by the time we finish we’ll be saying: that was really good.

Home dining platters, which this largely was, claim to serve serve four and they really do. £30. Absolute bargain. 5/5

Dining like this could be the future

4/5

Now, Martha’s was once a sit-down or take-away place in the town that tried to be a little bit more transparent about ingredients and sourcing and a little bit more right-on about flavours. It was going to be a game changer. It traded for about six years. Then shut. This is a rebirth, a delivery or pick-up only venture.

If they, along with other quality restaurants dipping toes into this market, could cater for those of us who impulse order and want our food in an hour max this would be a genuine game changer.

If you know a restaurant Ron should review, email ronmackennadefence@gmail.com

Easy to heat and assemble, packed with flavours, like a home delivery from the local takeaway except much, much better. 8/10