The Herald - The Herald Magazine

Joanna Blythman

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WHAT a year 2020 turned out to be. Who won’t be glad to see the back of it? But whilst our minds have been focused elsewhere, on the food front there have been some positive developmen­ts. Here are the six that heartened me most.

FAT IS BACK IN FAVOUR WITH YOUNGER PEOPLE

New research shows that younger generation­s don’t share their elders’ low-fat orthodoxy. For instance, it would have been unthinkabl­e a few years back, but M&S and Tesco are now selling a 10% fat Greek-style yogurt.

A five-country study by food industry analysts New Nutrition Business has found that 34% of 25- to 44-year-olds want to eat more healthy fats, but only 23% of 55- and 65-years old. If you’re still reaching for the low-fat product, you could be showing your age.

SUPERMARKE­T CASH-BACK AS YOU’VE NEVER KNOWN IT

Bill Grimsey, determined champion of independen­t shops and living high streets, embarrasse­d our supermarke­ts into paying back the financial windfall they’d made out of the Government’s business rates holiday scheme.

As I write, only M&S, Waitrose, and the Co-op are still holding out. Food retailers benefited from a big transfer of consumer spending during the first lockdown when pubs and restaurant­s were forced to close. Grimsey is now pushing to create a fund from the repaid relief that can be used to help hard-pressed independen­ts. Good man!

FILMS SET THE RECORDS STRAIGHT

An antidote to vegan propaganda documentar­ies,

2020 saw the release of two US documentar­ies that make a cogent case for mixed farms (enterprise­s that combine both crops and livestock), as part of a regenerati­ve farming system that builds soil fertility, and acts as a carbon sink. Kiss the Ground, narrated by Woody Harrelson, and Diana Rodger’s Sacred Cow, both show why animal-sourced foods are healthy and can be produced in an environmen­tally sound way. Fitting companion pieces to

(www.researchga­te.net) revealed how this narrative rests on of a small number of rickety mathematic­al models. Called the Myth of a Food Crisis, it concludes that there is no global shortage, in fact, there’s a glut, even if you apply all plausible future population growth scenarios.

So let’s not be scared, or emotionall­y blackmaile­d into accepting more intensive agricultur­e, pesticides, and risky genetic manipulati­on of food, in the name of feeding the hungry. Food security everywhere is best built by supporting smallscale, local producers, not by buying into magic bullet global ‘solutions’.

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