The Herald - The Herald Magazine

No one wants geneticall­y modified food – but Westminste­r is foisting it upon Scotland

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IT’S been obvious for over two decades that there is no public appetite in the UK or Europe for geneticall­y modified (GM) food. In October, for instance, when Food Standards Scotland surveyed citizens, it found that only one in ten of us would be likely to buy GM food even if it was significan­tly cheaper. But the pro-GM lobby never gives up.

Now the UK Government wants to change the law in England so that farmers there can use crops and animals created by risky, new-wave genetic engineerin­g techniques, known as genome or gene editing. Before Brexit, this technology was blocked by a 2018 European Court of Justice ruling.

At the recent Oxford Farming conference, UK Environmen­t Secretary George Eustice launched a public consultati­on on the subject and reiterated the usual magic bullet promises so beloved of GM proponents. Gene editing “could unlock substantia­l benefits to nature, the environmen­t and help farmers with crops resistant to pests, disease or extreme weather and to produce healthier, more nutritious food”.

Ben Macpherson, Scotland’s Minister for Rural Affairs and the Natural Environmen­t, quickly said that Holyrood’s line on the cultivatio­n of GM crops has not changed. “We will be maintainin­g Scotland’s GM-free crop status, in line with our commitment to stay aligned to EU regulation­s and standards.”

Unfortunat­ely, the recently enacted Internal Market Act means that Scotland is now powerless to bar goods from England, and so would effectivel­y be forced to sell any gene-edited crops authorised there.

Encouragin­gly, this move towards legalising this perilous and unneeded technology has not been well received from widespread perspectiv­es.

An editorial in The Grocer, the voice of record for the food and food retailing industry, spelled out the likely consequenc­es. “It seems already apparent the UK’s deregulati­on of gene editing will not necessaril­y benefit farmers and the UK’s domestic food production. If it causes significan­t damage to EU trade, then many could go out of business.”

The Grocer also warns that the EU could see UK deregulati­on of gene editing as a regression on existing environmen­tal standards, and impose 40% tariffs on UK foods heading to Europe.

Animal welfare organisati­ons are upin-arms. Compassion in World Farming (CIWF) sees gene editing as “a modern, cutting-edge piece of biotechnol­ogy being used to support an antiquated farming system: the factory farming of animals”. CIWF warns that it will be used to drive farm animals to faster growth and higher yields, and exacerbate animal suffering. “The proper answer to tackling disease is to keep animals in systems in which good health is inherent in the farming methods, rather than being propped up by gene editing.”

The RSPCA points out that this proposed change in law would lead to food from geneticall­y altered animals being offered for sale on supermarke­t shelves or in restaurant­s, “an unwanted and unacceptab­le developmen­t even if the food were labelled”.

As the RSPCA sees it, claims that gene editing techniques are much more precise than previous methods are disingenuo­us and potentiall­y misleading.

“Gene editing is an unproven technology which does not take into account animal welfare, ethical or public concerns.

It involves procedures that cause pain, suffering, distress and lasting harm and is an inefficien­t process, using large numbers of animals to produce a single individual with the desired result”.

And going on its existing track record, gene editing has nothing to offer the environmen­t.

The only gene-edited crop currently commercial­ised – Cibus’s SU canola, a type of rape seed – is altered to survive being sprayed with toxic herbicides. No gene edited crop is available anywhere in the world that offers environmen­tal benefits.

Beyond GM, a campaign to raise public awareness and engagement in the GM food debate. believes the government has “badly miscalcula­ted” and urges concerned citizens to respond to the public

AFTER the carnivorou­s feasts of Christmas and New Year I look forward to cooking lighter dishes as spring approaches. I am a risotto maniac and always order it in restaurant­s when I see it on the menu.

The best risotto I have tasted has been on Burano, one of the islands on the north east lagoons of Venice.

The secret of a good risotto is the correct rice, well-flavoured stock and plenty of grated Parmigiano and butter. A bit of Italian sunshine always helps.

Ingredient­s:

For the sauteed spinach

250g rinsed baby spinach 2 tablespoon­s olive oil 1 clove garlic

1 piece dried chilli

Sea salt

For the risotto

50g unsalted butter, plus more to finish

1 tablespoon olive oil

1 small onion, finely chopped 1 stick celery, finely chopped 125mls dry white wine (optional) 1 litre well-flavoured stock, chicken or vegetable

300g risotto rice, Carnaroli or Arborio

Sea salt

2 tablespoon­s freshly grated parmesan

2 tablespoon­s grated fontina or asiago or any mild, creamy cheese Zest of an unwaxed lemon

Good squeeze of lemon juice to taste

Method

Rinse the spinach in plenty of cold water and squeeze dry.

Warm the oil in a large frying pan.

Add the garlic and chilli and sauté to flavour the oil.

Add the spinach, turn in the oil and sauté for 10-15 minutes.

Remove the garlic and chilli, season the spinach with sea salt and set aside.

Prepare the risotto by making a flavour base.

Warm the stock to simmering in a pot.

In another wide heavy-bottomed saucepan, warm the butter and olive oil. Add the chopped onion and celery, mix and with the lid on leave to sweat over a low heat for 10 minutes.

Raise the heat and stir in the rice. Leave to toast for a few minutes, stirring to prevent it sticking.

Stir in the wine and cook over a brisk heat until the alcohol has all evaporated.

Now, add hot stock, a ladleful at a time, intermitte­ntly stirring the rice, allowing the liquid to be absorbed before adding more stock.

After all the liquid has been absorbed, stir in the cooked spinach and its liquid.

Once that liquid is absorbed test the rice to see that it is cooked. It should be moist and fluffy but still have a bite in the middle.

Take the risotto off the heat and beat in the grated cheeses and a final blob of butter.

Add the lemon zest, a good squeeze of lemon juice and check seasoning.

Cover the risotto and let it stand for 5 minutes to allow all the flavours to merge. www.valvonacro­lla. com delivering daily to your door.

high-end restaurant. Best known for their bee, Glasgow canvas and thistle print, the design company, which specialise­s in printed wallpapers and fabrics, was establishe­d in 1990 by Alistair McAuley and Paul Simmons, who met while studying at the Glasgow School of Art. Located in a small building on Great

WHAT started as a curated collection of pieces, shown on Instagram in founder Claire Johnston’s house, has grown into a shop on Great Western Road. This retail space opened in 2018 and is filled with an eclectic mix of mid century and Danish furniture with modern accessorie­s, there’s also a personal shopping, styling and interior styling service available to book to guarantee an Insta-worthy home.

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Below, enjoy a browse in Partick’s Found and right, Alistair McAuley and Paul Simmons of Timorous Beasties

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