Scottish Panoramas The cinematic majesty of the famous West Sands in St Andrews

BARRY DIDCOCK

TWO miles long and situated to the north-west of the town centre where it runs along a certain golf course, the golden West Sands of St Andrews have long been a place of rest, reflection and recreation for the people inhabiting this corner of Fife’s East Neuk. A favoured site for picnics, parties and lovers’ trysts –especially lovers’ trysts – the beach also plays host to sun-seekers (in warm weather) and dog walkers (in any weather). You won’t have to look far to find someone indulging in a more active work out, either – joggers, say, or beach volleyball players, or maybe even members of the Snidgets, the local Quidditch team, brushing up on their technique ahead of a big game. Turn the clock back a century or so and you may even have heard the roar of motorcycles on the West Sands. Edinburgh-born Jock Porter, who built his own bikes and was the first Scot to win the famed Isle of Man Tourist Trophy (or TT Race) in 1923, used to take part in races there. They, and he, were a huge draw.

But the beach is best known today for its starring role in a film set a year later: Chariots Of Fire. In its opening scenes a group of athletes in sand-splattered cotton shirts and shorts run along the beach in heroic slow-motion, their efforts accompanied by an equally famous soundtrack by Greek synth maestro Vangelis. Many is the student, local or tourist who has taken to their heels to mimic that famous shot while mouthing the theme tune.

Released in 1981 and the winner of four

Oscars, including Best Picture, the film tells the story of the 1924 Paris Olympics and the personal battles of Scot Eric Liddell, a devout Christian who refused to compete on a Sunday, and Jewish university student Harold Abrahams. With the beach standing in for the one specified in the script – Broadstairs – it becomes a training ground for the athletes, director Hugh Hudson reckoning that one beach is as good as another if all you’re doing is running along it in slow-motion to a majestic synth soundtrack. Besides, with the cast and crew already in Edinburgh to film the scenes set there it was cheaper to hop on the train to Leuchars than relocate to Kent.

The beach runs along first the Old Course and then the Jubilee Course to a promontory called Out Head where the River Eden runs into the sea. From there you can look across to another splendid beach, three-mile long Kinshaldy Beach, on the edge of Tentsmuir Forest though in this picture, taken at sunrise, the view is in the other direction – back along the beach to the towers and spires of the famous old university town.

What to watch

After that introduction, what else but Chariots Of Fire? But if you want something else, revisit Danny Boyle’s Isles Of Wonder, the film version of the 2012 London Olympics opening ceremony. It features a loving pastiche of the famous beach scene.

WHERE IS IT?

Sant Marti d’Empuries. It is part of L’Escala, the town in Spain where I have had a place for the last 30 years. The oldest stones in Sant Marti d’Empuries date to Roman times and can be found in the church. Change happens very slowly there.

Around 25 years ago they decided they were going to pave the streets. Before then, all the services – electricity cables, phone lines and everything else – were above ground and when it rained, the street flowed downhill and they were left with big ruts and rivulets.

When it was proposed by the town council to pave the streets, a very Catalan thing happened. Black sheets were hung out of every window in town as a sign of disapproval. But the black sheets had no effect, and the town was paved. Like everything else, gradually it became accepted.

WHY DO YOU GO THERE?

The main square in Sant Marti d’Empuries is very small yet busy. There are four restaurants with tables outside. Try to get a table there in the second half of July or first half of August, you can forget it. Over the years, I got to know all the restaurateurs.

HOW OFTEN DO YOU GO?

At least four or five times a year. The last time we were there was in February. My wife Eileen and I have family there. Ryanair is like our bus.

HOW DID YOU DISCOVER IT?

Almost by accident. Friends of our bought a place in L’Estartit in the 1980s. My late wife, Irene, and I fancied doing the same. But rather than L’Estartit, we bought just over the hill in L’Escala. I have been going ever since. I have had four different places in L’Escala.

WHAT’S YOUR FAVOURITE MEMORY?

Getting married to Eileen in Sant Marti d’Empuries. The hoops we had to jump through to arrange a civil ceremony were unbelievable. The bureaucracy was so crazy that our marriage ceremony was on September 21, but we didn’t actually sign the paperwork until October 30. We actually got married twice. We had the civil ceremony with all our friends, then a month later had to go through it again with the mayor at the town hall.

WHO DO YOU TAKE?

Eileen. We sometimes invite family and friends.

WHAT DO YOU TAKE?

My laptop. Everything I need is already there.

WHAT DO YOU LEAVE BEHIND?

Nothing. Life is continuous.

SUM IT UP IN FIVE WORDS.

Best place in the world.

WHAT TRAVEL SPOT IS ON YOUR POST-LOCKDOWN WISH LIST?

Canada. I have been a few times. If I had to choose a Canadian city to live, it would be Toronto, but for a holiday I would pick Vancouver. I would like to go for Sunday breakfast at Granville Island Public Market. Vancouver has an excellent book festival.

SUSAN SWARBRICK