The Bathgate Hills A Neolithic henge, abandoned silver mine and tales of mystery

SUSAN SWARBRICK

THE Bathgate Hills are steeped in stories. This corner of West Lothian – stretching from Linlithgow in the north, to Bathgate in the south and Uphall in the east – may not be as wellknown or lauded as some other Scottish landscapes, yet it is filled with beauty, rich history and folklore.

Among its striking landmarks is Binny Craig, the “crag-and-tail” landform

– a volcanic sill – that you see in the accompanying photograph. If you squint your eyes, it looks like a lion’s head.

Binny Craig, near Ecclesmachan, is a legacy from the last Ice Age with its

“crag” of hard rock facing west and sloping “tail” of sedimentary rock and fertile farmland to the east. It proffers superb views across the Firth of Forth, as well as surrounding West Lothian, Edinburgh and the Pentland Hills.

Speaking of panoramas, Cairnpapple Hill – the highest point in the Bathgate Hills – is no slouch either. From here, on a clear day, you can see right across Central Scotland to the Bass Rock and Berwick Law in the east and the distant mountains of Arran to the west. Cairnpapple, near Torphichen, was an important site for ceremonies and burials for at least 4,000 years – its Neolithic henge dates from about 3800 BC. Centuries later, it was used for Bronze Age burials and then early Christian graves.

Other gems in the Bathgate Hills include the Scottish Korean War Memorial with its arboretum of 1,114 native Scottish trees and Beecraigs Country Park, home to a loch and deer farm. The former Hilderston Silver Mine, not far from Cairnpapple, is said to have contributed to the making of the Scottish Crown Jewels, or “Honours of Scotland”, displayed at Edinburgh Castle. It closed in the early 17th century.

Nor is that the only silver in this story. According to legend, a family driving through the narrow, winding lanes of the Bathgate Hills in 1988 saw a glowing figure running in the opposite direction, moving at high speed. As it passed, the head of the so-called “Silver Man” twisted back towards them in a scowl.

Ghostly entity, hoax or something else? As the crow flies, this alleged encounter took place only a handful of miles from the location of a famed UFO sighting by forestry worker Robert Taylor in 1979. We will let you make up your own mind.

What to read:

West Lothian Lore by William Fyfe Hendrie. Published in 1976, it is packed with fascinating historical nuggets.

WHERE IS IT?

Balnakeil Bay and Faraid Head, near Durness, Sutherland.

WHY DO YOU GO THERE?

Because it’s about as far away as you can get without falling off the edge.

HOW OFTEN DO YOU GO?

Not nearly often enough. The last time I was there must have been 2007. That was also the last extended family holiday before my parents died in 2008. Growing up, I’d go there every year – it was the highlight of our annual summer holiday.

HOW DID YOU DISCOVER IT?

My distant relatives farmed the land, and my father used to go there as a boy. Despite growing up on a farm in Easter Ross himself, he ended up for a time working in the City of London, and I grew up in North Essex.

Our family summer holiday revolved around his love of shooting and fishing in Sutherland, so most of the time my brothers and I would be left to entertain ourselves. There was always a trip to Balnakeil at some point during the holiday, though.

WHAT’S YOUR FAVOURITE MEMORY?

There are so many. Clambering over the rocks, swimming in the crystalclear water, cheese and ham baps with hot English mustard and not a little fine sand.

We usually managed a trip to the craft village at Durness too, and I have fond memories of eating too much tablet and fudge.

WHO DO YOU TAKE?

I don’t have children to pass on the family tradition to. It would just be me, my partner and sundry dogs.

WHAT DO YOU TAKE?

Now, I’d take stout walking boots so I could make the trip out to the rocky point of Faraid Head, my good camera and some binoculars to look at the puffins and other seabirds. Back then it was swimming trunks and a bucket and spade.

I would drive in my 1967 Alfa Romeo Duetto, and probably take the road from Lairg that goes to Altnaharra and on up past Hope to get there, rather than sticking to the North Coast 500 route.

Having not been that way for so long, I suspect I’d be disappointed to find it busy rather than the empty wilderness of my childhood memories.

WHAT DO YOU LEAVE BEHIND?

Only footprints in the sand to be washed away on the next tide.

SUM IT UP IN FIVE WORDS.

The end of the world.

WHAT TRAVEL SPOT IS ON YOUR POST-LOCKDOWN WISH LIST?

I don’t get to do much travelling, on account of having a fold of Highland cattle requiring my attention seven days a week. Perhaps a return to the South Island of New Zealand is on the cards once travel is possible.

SUSAN SWARBRICK