Wine with Gerard Richardson

I HAD a cracking evening with a selection of Coonawarra reds the other day and it’s become my new favourite Aussie wine region. When I started tasting Australian reds in the 1980s, I thought the world would never improve on the shiraz from the Barossa, then I discovered the slightly silkier versions of the Hunter and my allegiances changed.

In the noughties I became hooked on the wonderful classy reds from Margaret River with their Bordeaux-like qualities but as I approach my 60th year I realised my palate was looking for a region that encompassed elements of all the above. Finally, I found it in Coonawarra.

It probably helps that the dominant grape variety is cabernet sauvignon, which in my humble opinion is the greatest of all, but it turns out that the key to the success of the region is something French winemakers would be proud of – terroir.

There’s a particular type of brick-red soil called terra rossa which, it turns out, is a vine’s best friend. When you add Coonawarra’s maritime climate, which is almost identical to that of Bordeaux, if perhaps more generous in the sun department, you’ve got a Torvill and Dean type partnership. In addition to cabernet, the region is also pretty good at shiraz.

The other notable thing about the reds of Coonawarra is their ability to age, something that any Bordeaux fan will appreciate.

Coonawarra Special Reserve Cabernet

A cracking wine for the price. Ripe blackcurrant aromas with creamy autumn fruits, pepper and hints of cocoa on the palate.

Marks & Spencer, £10

Balnaves Cabernet Merlot

Cassis, plums and vanilla in a smooth wine, almost creamy on the palate. Majestic Wines, £20.99 mix 6