Wine with Gerard Richardson

I THOUGHT we could continue our love affair with Australian wine and take a look at the grape that I think really changed the wine business in the New World’s favour. It is, of course, shiraz: that dark, hearty grape famous as one of the main varietals of the Rhone Valley until an Aussie winemaker took a swan and turned it into a supermodel.

Apologies for the weird analogy, but shiraz was never an ugly duckling. In fact, in the vineyards of Hermitage where it’s often the sole variety, the wines are generally outstanding. What the Aussies did, however, was retain the power while softening the palate, creating some of the juiciest wines many of us had ever tasted in the 1980s. The wine revolution was underway.

By softening the palate and making the tannins more approachable, they created wines that didn’t need anything more pretentious as a partner than a packet of crisps and, all of a sudden, wine was as approachable as a bottle of beer. I know there were all sorts of other factors at play, but Aussie shiraz was the one that brought wine to my attention, as well as others.

Skillogalee Basket Pressed Shiraz

Ripe, warm berry aromas leading into a rich palate of juicy dark fruits with hints of pepper and vanilla on the finish. In short, this is absolutely gorgeous and in many ways it’s the quintessential Aussie shiraz. I tried it with a creamy carbonara and it was sublime. www.standrewswine.co.uk £21.95

Grant Burge Shiraz

Grant Burge really are shiraz masters and this cracking bargain shows what they can do. Ripe plums, warm treacle and toasty vanilla in a soft, almost enveloping, palate. Gorgeous, and a real bargain.