BUENOS NOSHES
Offering up foolproof recipes to help bring Spanish dishes into your home, Omar Allibhoy lives by the philosophy of cook without fuss and eat like a king
From the chef behind the Tapas Revolution cookbook in 2013, Omar Allibhoy believes we all have the right to eat great food, so we must make the most of it. After making it his life mission to share his love and passion for Spanish food and tapas, and learning from talented chefs such as Ferran Adria and Gordon Ramsay, his second book Spanish Made Simple, published in September, is his way of sharing his culture and lifestyle with the masses.
Try your hand at making your own tapas, with recipes from the nibbles section, bigger plates with game and fish, or lighter salads or hearty stews or soups. The recipes of the book follow the diversity of Spain
across its seasons, climates and region, from the heat of Andalucía to the cooler Galicia and everything in between. Below are three recipes taken from the book.
Tosta de higos con jamon – Pan-fried figs, serrano ham, cream cheese and walnuts on toast
Serves 4 as a tapa
100g (½ cup) cream cheese 50g (½ cup) walnut halves 4 slices rustic bread, toasted 8 figs Extra virgin olive oil 1tsp brown sugar A splash of sherry vinegar A pinch of rock or sea salt 8 thin slices of Serrano ham
Tapas are much easier to make at home than people think, and these days you can find most Spanish ingredients in your local supermarket so there is no excuse. Figs are at their peak in early autumn; make sure you buy soft and sweet ones. Mix the cream cheese with three-quarters of the walnuts, crumbling them between your hands and beating them into the cheese with a fork. Spread generously over the bread.
Open your figs by cutting a cross at the pointed end and opening them out like a flower with your fingers. Drizzle some olive oil into a pan over a medium heat and add the brown sugar. Add the figs and fry the bases only, without turning them; we only want to cook the bottoms of the figs. Watch that the caramel that forms in the pan doesn’t burn. Add the sherry vinegar and turn off the heat.
Place your hot figs over the toasts and drizzle with the hot vinaigrette from the pan. Top with a good drizzle of extra virgin olive oil, a pinch of salt and the slices of Serrano ham. Sprinkle with the remaining walnuts.
Estofado de corzo con setas – Venison and wild mushroom stew with olive oil mash (my family style)
Serves 6
2kg (4½lb) shoulder of venison 1 x 75cl bottle of Spanish red wine
Olive oil, for frying 1 carrott, roughly chopped 1 celery stick, roughly chopped 1 onion, roughly chopped 2 tomatoes, chopped 2 bay leaves 1 sprig fresh thyme 1 sprig fresh rosemary 1 sprig fresh marjoram 5 black peppercorns 2 cloves ½ cinnamon stick 25ml (1tbsp + 2 tsp) brandy 500g (1lb 2oz) wild mushrooms 570ml (2¼ cups) beef stock Salt
For the mashed potatoes
1kg (2lb 3oz) waxy potatoes 200g (¾ cup + 2tbsp) butter 100ml (⅓ cup + 1tbsp) olive oil 100ml (½ cup) double cream Salt and freshly ground pepper
In autumn and winter my uncles and cousins would go hunting in the mountains of Madrid – but not all of us liked hunting, so we used to pick mushrooms along the way. This was a dish that would be on the table a couple of days later, after we’d chopped up and marinated the animal.
Cut the venison into big chunks and leave to marinate overnight in the red wine. The next day, drain the wine and reserve it for later. Heat some olive oil in a deep pan or roasting tray over a high heat and fry the venison pieces to seal them. Remove and set aside. If you plan to slow-cook the stew in the oven, preheat it to 160°C/325°F/gas mark 3. Add a little more oil to the pan and add the carrot, celery and onion. Cook for 20 minutes until caramelised and then add the tomatoes, herbs and spices.
Return the meat to the pan and pour over the brandy and reserved wine. Cook until reduced by half. Add the wild mushrooms and the beef stock and season with a little salt. Bring to the boil and then cover. Slowcook the stew either over a low heat or in the oven for at least 3 hours, until the meat falls apart and you have an unctuous and rich sauce. Leave the oven on.
To make the mashed potatoes, peel, wash and cut the potatoes into even slices and place them in a large pan. Cover with cold water and bring to the boil over a high heat. Cook for about 15 minutes until soft, drain and return to the same pan. Set over a low heat for 1 minute to dry. Add the butter, salt and pepper and start mashing using a whisk. Add the olive oil and cream and mix. Tip onto a baking sheet and bake on the top shelf of the oven for 20 minutes so that it crisps up and lightly browns. Serve hot with the venison stew.