BOOMING BRATISLAVA
From hip brunch spots to hidden bunkers and fairytale churches, Bratislava is a fun option for a weekend break, writes Lucy Mallows
Why go now?
Slovakia currently holds the rotating presidency of the EU, pushing its capital, the “little big city” of Bratislava, into the spotlight this month as host of the Special EU Summit. But there’s far more to explore here than politics. For one night on 8 October, the White Night Festival (bielanoc.sk) shows contemporary art in unusual settings, from banks to palace gardens, all over town. Visitors get a special map guiding them around installations, concerts, films, dance and live performances.
The grape harvest also gets going in September and cellars along the 40km Small Carpathian Wine Route open their doors for free tastings, singing and dancing until mid-October. Start in the village of Rača, in Bratislava’s outskirts and meander by bus, train or bicycle to Pezinok (pezinok.sk) and Modra (modra.sk), where you can also pick up folk ceramics and fine chinaware, made here since the 16th century.
Get your bearings
Bratislava lies astride the Danube, bordering the Austrian and Hungarian frontiers. The main draw is the Old Town, a largely pedestrianised area. The tourist office is at Klobucnicka 2 (00 421 2 5443 3715; visitbratislava.com). Opening hours vary depending on whether it is on-season or off-season and on the day of the week, but arrive any time between 10am and 3pm and you should catch them.
Bratislava Airport (or M.R. Štefánik Airport is approximately 9km north-east of the city centre. From the airport, bus No 61 goes to the train station every 20 minutes (a one-way ticket costs €0.90). From here, tram 1 or bus 93 take you to the Old Town within 10 minutes. Taxis cost €25-30 one way, and the journey should take around 15 minutes.
Day one Take a view
Get an overview of the city by whizzing up in the lift to the open-air observation deck at UFO, entry €6.50, the flying saucer-shaped cupola sticking up 87 metres above Most SNP bridge. The UFO offers spectacular views along the Danube and across the Old Town rooftops to the surrounding hills. From here you can also admire Petržalka’s crowded 1970s housing estate, which stretches almost to Austria. To check out the ‘loo with a view’, treat yourself to a coffee or a cocktail in the bar of the stratospherically-priced UFO restaurant (00 421 2 6252 0300; u-f-o.sk).
Take a hike
Start in the Old Town’s main square, Hlavné námestie, where in December you’ll find traditional Christmas markets. Admire Napoleon’s cannonball, still embedded in the wall of the Old Town Hall’s tower, then walk through the Old Town Hall’s elegant courtyard to emerge into another historic square, this time adorned by the pink, 18th-century Primate’s Palace. Turn right and walk along Laurinská street, where you can admire the humorous statues of Schöne Náci (tipping his top hat) and Čumil (‘the Watcher’, peering out from his manhole cover). This leads to St Martin’s Cathedral, a dinky three-nave Gothic church and the site of the coronation of 19 Hungarian kings and queens. Daily services and concerts are held 9am-11.30am and 1pm-4pm every Monday to Saturday, and at 1.30pm-4.30pm on Sunday (00 421 2/3054 4334; dom.fara.sk; free entry).
Lunch on the run
A short walk over Most SNP bridge, in Sad Janka Král’a park (one of the oldest municipal parks in Europe), Leberfinger (00 421 917 115 116; leberfinger.sk) is a lovely lunch spot in a historic 18th-century building overlooking the Danube – go for the classic autumnal dish of goose leg with red cabbage, €17.90. Back in the Old Town, the popular Orbis, at Laurinská 7 (facebook.com/orbisfood), is open from 11am and offers street food from around the world; Moroccan wraps, masala omelettes and twice-cooked Belgian frites.
Window shopping
Bratislava’s Old Town is filled with indie fashion boutiques and folk craft emporia. Kompot at Laurinská 19 (00 421 948 630 852; kompot.sk) offers hip T-shirts, totes and homeware. Open 10.30am-7pm Monday to Friday, 2pm-7pm Saturday, closed Sundays.
Slavica Design Shop
is a local favourite found on the fourth floor of the KC Dunaj building (Nedbalova 3), selling clothes, jewellery and ceramics by young local designers. It has also opened a sister gallery at Laurinska 19 (00 421 917 968 736; slavicadesign.sk). Open 2pm-8pm Tuesday to Thursday, 2pm-9pm on Friday, and 4pm-9pm on Saturday. Closed Sundays.
An aperitif
The seventh floor Sky Bar (00 421 948 109 400; skybar.sk) offers a dramatic view across the red rooftops to Bratislava Castle, St Martin’s Cathedral and the hills beyond. Sip a crisp local white wine or try a cocktail made with some local Borovička juniper brandy.
Dine with the locals
Up in Bratislava Castle’s grounds, at Námestie A. Dubčeka 1, Restauracia Hrad (00 421 2 5972 4256; facebook.com/restauraciahrad) offers a lighter take on classic Middle Europe dishes (such as local catch zander with potato soufflé, €15.90), quality local wines and a spectacular view from the terrace. Or roll further down the cobbled hill to atmospheric, low-lit Modrá Hviezda (00 421 2 5443 2747; modrahviezda.sk), in an 18th-century, late-Baroque building, for traditional specialities such as roast Mangalica pig with chestnuts and pumpkin purée, €18.90.
Day two Sunday morning: out to brunch
In the early 1900s, the Habsburg-style Kaffe Mayer (00 421 2 5441 1741; kaffeemayer.sk), at Hlavné námestie 4, tempted Viennese ladies to travel 60km by tram for top-notch kaffee und kuchen – the latter here meaning a choice of 37 different cakes. Or for a contemporary brunch, chill out in a hammock and order the halloumi and portobello mushroom burger (€6.90) at the self-consciously oh-so-cool Urban House (00 421 904 001021; urbanhouse.sk) at Laurinská 14.