A WATERFRONT GEM IN THE LAKE DISTRICT
Grasmere’s only lakeside hotel is back in business after a major renovation, writes Nicola Trup
Grasmere, land of Wordsworth and ginger bread, of chocolate-box houses, dramatic fells and a lake straight out of a watercolour painting. It's also a place that was hit hard by last year's floods; when the River Rothay burst its banks, the streets filled with water, as did many homes and businesses. Among the places hit was the Daffodil Hotel; the entire ground floor was flooded, but it has since undergone an extensive refurbishment and relaunched this summer.
There has been a hotel on this site since 1855, and while the current building only dates back four years, it's an imposing slate-clad affair that certainly doesn't look like a newbuild. The Daffodil is the only hotel in the village located on the lake, and as such, it's a prime wedding venue; during the August weekend when I visited there were ceremonies taking place every day, and I arrived to the sight of a bride and groom bravely battling the elements (read: torrential rain) to have their picture taken on the waterfront.
Since the flooding, the reception and bar have had a modern makeover, along with the events spaces (for all those weddings) and the spa, which reopened just this month, with facilities including a thermal pool, rasul bath, sauna and steam room. The first-floor restaurant makes the most of those lake views and serves food that is unexpectedly delicious. I say “unexpectedly”, because the Daffodil doesn't make a song and dance about its dining – but it should. Guests have a choice of starters and mains, or tapas-style sharing plates, all made with high-quality ingredients; don't miss the char-grilled baby chorizo or tomahawk steak (perhaps try their generously-portioned dishes on different nights, though, to avoid falling into a meat coma).
Location
The hotel is on the edge of Grasmere, directly opposite are the William Wordsworth Museum and Dove Cottage, which was once home to the poet. You're just 10 minutes' walk from the heart of the village, with its abundance of outdoor gear suppliers, tea rooms and souvenir shops, but the real reason for visiting is the first-rate walking amid incredible scenery. The hotel's helpful concierge can help you pick your hike (he has route cards for several popular ones) or else pick up a map from the local bookshop and go it alone; I'd recommend Helm Crag, the summit of which offers great views of the lake and houses below.
Comfort
From the Daffodil's vast size, one might expect it to have more than 78 rooms and suites, but the relatively small number means rooms are all generously sized, and the hotel doesn't feel crowded, even when fully booked. Rooms are colourfully decorated (in the case of my Junior Suite, the palette was teal and cream) and though the upper floors weren't part of the renovation, they still feel fresh and bright, perhaps thanks to the generous windows, many of which look out on to the lake. The element that could perhaps do with an overhaul are the beds; mine was wonderfully spacious but turned out to be quite uncomfortable and sloping at the sides.
The hotel is home to a rather eclectic array of art on the walls; celebrity photos adorn the restaurant and cartoony sketches dot some of the hallways. My Junior Suite was a homage to Audrey Hepburn, featuring half a dozen or so images of the actress. As a theme, it felt a little random, to be honest, but it was a nice change from the usual bland hotel art. And with that view, who's looking at the walls?
Essentials
Daffodil Hotel & Spa, Keswick Road, Grasmere, Cumbria LA22 9PR (015394 63550; daffodilhotel.co.uk). Doubles from £130, B&B.
Wi-fi: free Access: three wheelchair-accessible rooms Parking: plentiful and free
More information: golakes.co.uk
Stagecoach (stagecoachbus.com) offers one-day North West Explorer bus passes for £10.80, with unlimited travel.