WINE RICHARD EHRLICH Keep­sum­mer­going­o­nan­do­nan­don

The Jewish Chronicle - - LIFE -

When Ge­orge Gersh­win died at the shock­ingly young age of 38, the writer John O’Hara wrote: “Ge­orge Gersh­win died July 11, 1937, but I don’t have to be­lieve it if I don’t want to.” The pass­ing of the sea­sons is a triv­i­al­ity com­pared to the pre­ma­ture death of a ge­nius, but I can’t re­sist say­ing, none­the­less: “Au­gust will be over in two days, but I don’t have to be­lieve it if I don’t want to.”

Septem­ber of­ten of­fers fine weather, but it is not the same thing as sum­mer. I agree com­pletely with Henry James: the two most beau­ti­ful words in the English lan­guage are “sum­mer af­ter­noon”. It isn’t just the lovely weather to­day, it’s the prom­ise that to­mor­row will be just as good. And the day af­ter that. End­lessly. This week’s drinks are cho­sen with the ex­press pur­pose of help­ing me not be­lieve that Septem­ber is upon us. They are quintessen­tially sum­mery drinks. First is some­thing I rarely drink: fizz in a can. Caw­ston Press fruit juices are made from real fruit, and they taste like it. I have been smit­ten by their Rhubarb and Ap­ple, brac­ingly tart to bal­ance out the sweet­ness. Avail­able as a six-pack from Booths and Waitrose for £4.99.

The sec­ond item is Sip­smith Sum­mer Cup, gin from the out­stand­ing Sip­smith dis­tillery with a small bas­ket­ful of botan­i­cal flavour­ings and a soupçon of Earl Grey tea. It all makes for a slightly smoky, spicy pack­age, good with the of­fi­cially re­com- mended lemon­ade but dryer and very re­fresh­ing with a lightly fizzy wa­ter such as San Pel­le­grino. Not cheap: around £18.50/50cl at Sains­bury’s, Waitrose, Harvey Ni­chols, Sel­f­ridges and in­de­pen­dents. But very good.

And fi­nally, a su­pe­rior rosé: Domaine Les Filles de Septem­bre Rosé 2013, Côtes de Thongue (Yapp, £10.75). It goes with­out say­ing that rosé is the quin­tes­sen­tial sum­mer wine, but it is equally ob­vi­ous that a lot of pink wine is in­sipid and bor­ing. Not this one. Very dry, nicely ripe, and highly ver­sa­tile for food. Soon I’ll be drink­ing it in Septem­ber. Though I don’t have to be­lieve that if I don’t want to.

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