At last we can getourhands onaburger
Wh o d o e s n ’ t like a burger? It is the perfect package of beef, onion, lettuce and t o m a t o e s , s q u i s h e d between two halves of a soft, sweet bread roll. Few foods can compete for speedy satisfaction. Problem is, most are out of bounds.
Thankfully kosher restaurants are wising up to foodie trends. Evidence of this has been the arrival of a number of supervised burger outlets — not just token burgers on kosher menus but a proper modern take on the American classic. We finally get to share the craze.
In the past year, social media has been full of breathless twittering about kosher burger bars — Flipside in Borehamwood and Temple Fortune’s Burger Bar and Hummus Bar, which provoked such heated debates on Facebook’s Restaurant Club group that it virtually imploded.
The first two offer proper burgerbar menus with all the finger food a good burger bar needs. Hummus Bar’s menu goes further, with meaty finger food such as a Sloppy Joe (stewy in texture and loaded into a pitta) and a shwarma in ciabatta.
The JC panel — including Michael Leventhal (founder of Gefiltefest) and me — tested a classic burger and one other from Flipside, Hummus Bar, Burger Bar and Edgware’s The Kitchen. The Temple Fortune outlet, from the people who brought you Hendon Bagel Bakery, has a young, funky vibe and a wide selection of burgers, from classic to Mediterranean (aubergine, fried egg, tahini and sweet chilli) to foie gras with truffle mayo. There are also veggie burgers, schnitzels, tortillas and hearty salads. Sides include fries — French, home, sweet potato, garlic and pesto — and onion rings. There are even soya milkshakes.
Classic A favourite with many of the tasters. Firm, succulent patty with good texture — not over-processed — and nicely seasoned. The bun was big and bouncy, keeping meaty juices in check.
Truffle burger Topped with a fried egg and a shmear of truffle mayo, this evoked Marmitestyle reactions from the panel. Verdicts ranged from “amazing! I need another now” to the “no no, no” brigade.
Flipside Another heavily themed venue with plenty of American memorabilia. Short menu including a classic burger, Guilty One (with fakon — kosher bacon substitute), Volcano (jalapenos, grilled pepper and chilli sauce), Caveman (no bun), plus a veggie version, a chicken breast and a schnitzel. Ideal for families and a hit with the celebs from Elstree Studios. There are also fries — French, chunky, sweet potato and Flipside (coated in a sweet sauce).
Classic Good texture; highly seasoned — a plus for me. Firm, lightly toasted sesame bun. Flipside sent a variety of toppings and sauces. Pickled cucumbers were feisty with punch; guacamole so smooth and creamy that it merits a name check.
The Guilty One Mimicking true treif, this is topped with fakon and soya cheese. The fakon (an inoffensive sliver of salt beef) was lost on some, who just didn’t get it. Try it for yourself and decide. This very Israeli outlet isn’t just about the burger but serves a range of very now dishes with a side of yummy cocktails and funky music. It lists the burgers under the grilled sandwiches section, which features a classic, Beet (vegetarian), Double Decker, Kebaburger (beef and lamb) and a belly-busting Mighty Burger — 380g of meat filled with salt beef stew and garlic confit and a fried egg. At £18.50 it has the price tag of a night out — but not one you’ll forget.
Classic You could see and taste the char grill on this smooth patty — more finely chopped than the competition. The bun was a glossy, sesame-topped brioche with good height. Toppings — lettuce and tomato. Big thumbs-up.
Double decker A layer of slow-cooked salt beef (tender and tasty like pulled meat) plus pickled cabbage, mayo, lettuce, tomato, garlic aioli and barbecue sauce. The panel were in raptures. “Head and shoulders above anyone else — I’d queue around the block for this,” said one panellist. The mood here is grown-up, slick and smart. A menu far wider than burgers, with breakfast, brunch and sandwiches served by day and a huge range in the evening, including sushi, pasta, burgers, hot dogs. Burgers include a classic (to which you can add goose breast); the Big Zac (a jaw-challenging triple decker with soya cheese, onion and Thousand Island dressing); Mexiburger (chilli, japalenos and onions); Double Fakon Cheat (smokey fakon and soya cheese); plus the bunless Caveman (with smoked goose breast) and a couple of chicken offers. The Kitchen’s burgers were eaten in, not delivered.
Classic This is served on a smart slab of slate and was well seasoned, juicy and perfectly cooked. The sesame bun held out admirably under the meaty juices and the toppings — lettuce, tomato, red onion and mayo — were generous. Universally acclaimed.
Double Fakon Cheat Again, wholehearted praise for this one. Hard to work out exactly what it contained but our tester would definitely order it again.
Overall, a pretty good show. None of these burgers will leave you hungry, especially the double deckers. The jury’s out on fakon, though — some reviewers taking a “what you’ve never had...” attitude — and opinion was similarly divided on soya cheese.