Ecuador awakening
AT THREE in the morning we were awakened by what sounded like gunshots outside our window. Had we arrived in Ecuador just in time for a South American revolution? The flight from Israel is via New York and the journey can take a day but we had finally settled into our very luxurious room in the Plaza del Grande, in Quito, the capital of Ecuador. The cause of our broken sleep turned out to be fireworks — the culmination of a local carnival and a dramatic welcome for us, on our tour of Ecuador and the Galapagos, the place where Darwin had his eureka moment.
If you are going to travel half-way across the world to places with unfamiliar names, you had better go with an experienced tour operator who knows what kosher-keeping travellers want — excellent food, a pleasant guide with good English, top accommodation and fascinating locations. We had chosen Aviva Preston of ALP Tours, who was making this trip for the fourth time.
According to Preston, Quito is the prettiest capital city in South America. On the drive from the airport through the valley in which the city lies, it is possible to catch the first glimpse of mountains and volcanoes on either side of the road. We also got to know our guide, Juan Carlos, a personable young man with perfect English who kept up a steady and fascinating commentary. The city lies 2,850m above sea level and 22km from the equator. It has a great spring climate and magnificent views all around. In 1978 Unesco named it a world heritage site because of its architectural treasures, including two magnificent cathedrals and many historic colonial buildings.
The highlight of any visit to Quito is the Middle of the World monument, at the official site of 0°0’0 latitude. Watch water swirling in different directions on either side of the equator and have your photo taken with one foot in each hemisphere.
The two cathedrals, one with animals, one with gold leaf, are also landmarks in Quito. But for visiting Jews, the community centre is a must. An amazing complex with a beautiful synagogue and huge swimming pool decorated with a tiled Magen David, it was the place chosen for our barbecue lunch, featuring mountains of grilled meat and salads.
A mashgiah travelled everywhere with us, providing full-time supervision, while the meat and chicken came from the Ecuador community or from Chabad.
Kosher bread is readily available locally but cheese and wine are brought in specially for ALP guests.
Our first meal, of creamy parsnip soup, fresh salmon with savoury rice, salad and crème caramel, set a high and memorable standard.
Another meal featured a beautiful lacquered box on the plate. When we opened it, the hors d’oeuvres were inside, a rice and salad mix.
All the places we stayed in were award-winning boutique hotels with top chefs. They set aside a private kitchen or kitchen area which was koshered and their chefs adapted their gourmet dishes to kosher requirements, using our own equipment, crockery and cutlery and many of our own ingredients, brought along for the trip. The hotels also provided a separate dining room and dedicated serving staff.
Shabbat passed pleasantly enough with walks around the town and visits to local museums, punctuated with more good meals and self-conducted prayers.
After Shabbat we all climbed into a chiva, a colourful rustic bus without windows, to be driven around the town. On the roof was a live band, playing very loud folk music and the locals waved to us as we rattled around the streets of the old city.
On Sunday we drove to the Papallacta Hot Springs in the Andean moorlands and bathed in hot thermal pools, a relaxing preparation for the next day hiking through the Amazonian jungle, which we reached by canoe.
A local guide pointed out animals and tropical birds in a rescue centre as we passed. There were toucans, tapirs and monkeys, all recuperating before being released back into the wild.
Lunch was trout baked in foil with rice, grilled tomatoes and a dessert of fruit salad.
We visited a local family in their straw-and-palm-roof hut and tasted home-made chicha, an Inca drink made from maize (we supervised the making ourselves). A few intrepid souls even tried their hand (or rather breath) at blowgun target- shooting.
The next few days were spent visiting waterfalls and dormant volcanoes, until we arrived at the Devil’s Nose Railway, one of the great railway engineering feats of the late 19th century. The Devil’s Nose is a mountain with almost perpendicular walls. To surmount this, a zigzag railway was built that climbs more than 500m in less than 12 km with steep ascents and descents. Aweinspiring.
Our second Shabbat was in Cuenca, another Unesco site and a charming city with cobbled streets and stunning architecture.
Finally it was time to visit the Galapagos, via the city of Guayaquil, where we stopped twice at the Israeliowned kosher grill and enjoyed some home cooking. The more intrepid travellers climbed 450 steps to see the view, while the less able stayed in town and enjoyed the sights in yet another Unesco world heritage site.
For touring the Galapagos Islands we boarded the Legend, a wellequipped and comfortable cruise ship. It anchors off-shore, so to reach the islands requires Zodiac boats. Getting in and out of these proved challenging for the less nimble.
For the next three days we walked, across wet sand and slippery rocks, seeing the most amazing wildlife — an animal-lover’s dream. Giant tortoises, seals, iguanas, blue-footed boobies, flamingos and even a glimpse of the frigate birds which steal food from other birds in flight. At the end of the day it was blissful to sit on the beach and let the crystal waters wash over tired feet and then to return to our comfortable hotel to enjoy the gourmet food served.
On board ship, kosher p asse n ge rs have a separate area and dining room too and dedicated chef. Kosher ingredients are taken on board specially in sealed packaging.
The entire trip left me with unforgettable memories, as well as a strong desire to return one day — the true test of a great holiday. Brown pelican rocks up in the Galapagos.
Quito as seen from the hotel
Gloria Deutsch travelled with ALP Tours. Forthcoming ALP destinations include Japan (October 19 to November 1, £5,950 per person sharing);Myanmar and Costa Rica/Panama and a return to Ecuador. Contact Aviva Preston at ALP Tours: 0208 997 7083 or 0795 723 3551, alptours@hotmail.co.uk