GETTING THERE
Be tempted by Quebec City’s pretty streets or Montreal’s unique bagels
spot where Montreal was founded, and built on its archaeological ruins, while the delightful old port is just a short walk away, offering a zipwire for the adventurous (including my husband and son), plus stalls to mooch around, pedalos, a great high-tree climbing course and inflatable assault course (called “voiles en voiles”). If you’re travelling with children, then add La Ronde, the city’s theme park to your itinerary: it’s a must-visit for anyone who enjoys scary rides, including — once again — my son and husband.
For less adrenaline-fuelled views, thankfully there’s the Au Sommet (“at the top”) observatory in Downtown as well as Mont Royal itself, the mountain for which the city is named. The 233 metre high peak is a tempting green oasis in the heart of the city, while
DIRECT flights from London to Montreal cost from around £500 return with British Airways (ba.com) or Air Canada (aircanada.com); similar rates to Quebec City via Montreal with Air Canada. the views are spectacular, going all the way to the Olympic Park — which was just about finished in time for the opening ceremony of the 1976 summer Olympics (and nearly bankrupted the city in the process).
Take the metro to the park, and you can join a guided tour of the site itself and ride a funicular up to the top of the Olympic Tower for more views.
Rooms at the Residence Inns, Montreal Marriott Downtown (marriott. co.uk) cost from around £75 per night, including some with kitchenette.
Rooms at the Quebec City Marriot Downtown EDITED BY CATHY WINSTON cwinston@thejc.com
It’s sad to discover that the stadium itself is now barely used, unlike the magnificent swimming pool, but thankfully the same can’t be said of the Space for Life centre in the same area, which combines four natural museums into one complex; a marvellous biodome, planetarium, insectarium and botanical gardens.
The biodome was particularly good — as one of my children said, “like the Eden Project, but better” — with good explanations of the different climates and a number of native animals on view, from beavers and raccoons in one to penguins and puffins in another.
It’s easy to forget that for four months of the year, this lovely, busy city is so cold that people resort to getting about underground, where tunnels and the Metro connect to Downtown’s buildings, allowing an escape from the freezing temperatures.
Montreal may be the biggest city in Quebec, but its oldest is Quebec City, a three-and-a-half hour train journey away. It is also the province’s official capital and one of the oldest settlements in North America. start from around £97.
For more information visit QuébecOriginal at quebecoriginal.com, Tourisme Montreal at mtl. org/en and the Quebec City Tourist office at quebecregion.com/en
A Jewish Montreal walking tour is around £50 with Round Table Tours (roundtablefoodtours. com)
MK Canada has details of kosher certified places in Montreal. mk.ca
Smaller than its sister city and more touristy, it’s a real treat to visit, especially the simple beauty of the old city with its upper and lower towns. You can travel between these via a funicular, but it’s not far to be work to be honest.
Quebec City is full of shops, restaurants and bars. We had to drag ourselves (and our children) away from the fabulous Chocolato ice cream shop with its 20 dipping sauces and from the speciality flavours at Mary’s Popcorn.
Strolling past landmarks, including the famous Chateau Frontenac hotel, and the street performers on the Dufferin Terrace, we then rested our feet with a boat trip along the St Lawrence river to the Montmorency Falls.
We also visited a few of the best museums in the area, including the Musee de la Civilisation, which had a fascinating permanent exhibition on the First Nations of Canada, the country’s indigenous people.
The Musee de la Place Royale focuses more on the history of this part of Quebec City, and offers a chance to dress up in period clothing that’s definitely not just for children.
You can also discover a piece of history which still continues on summer days with the changing of the guard at the Citadelle. The soldiers of the Royal 22e Régiment all wear bearskins and it feels remarkably British — except for the ceremonial goat named Batisse.
Where else can you find such a mix? From the French to the Jewish, the food to the culture, this tale of two cities was an unexpected treat.