PRINCIPAL CHARLOTTE SQUARE
quarters of a mile long. By Taradevi, I’m ready for a change of scenery — and position — moving to the open doorwell, careful to avoid the branches that brush the side of the carriage.
We are now in the foothills of the Himalayas and there are tantalising glimpses of Shimla as the train winds through a series of curves. Night is falling as we arrive, but I can see the town sprawling over the surrounding hillsides with the original colonial buildings rising to Observatory Hill.
It’s topped with the Viceregal Lodge, the summer residence of the Indian Viceroy, who ruled the Indian subcontinent, home to a fifth of the world’s population, between 1888 until 1947.
A rather dour baronial castle, all turrets and gables in local grey sandstone, it was built to Viceroy Lord Dufferin’s design in 1888 to remind him of home and impress visiting dignitaries.
After independence it passed over to the Indian government. Now occupied by a local university, only a few rooms are open to visitors including the teakpanelled central Hall.
Along Shimla’s main artery, Mall Road, Kipling’s first play premiered at the Gaiety Theatre; recently restored, the half-timbered Tudor style Town Hall is also being spruced up. And Scandal Point, where girls freshly arrived from the UK once made eyes at eligible bachelors, is still bustling too.
It’s 70 years since the Raj ended but its legacy lives on in the Kalka-Shimla railway. It’s just a shame that 1905 steam engine doesn’t get out more.
IT IS easy to miss the Principal in Edinburgh’s Charlotte Square. I did — twice. The understated signage was explained by staff as being in keeping with the square’s status as a Unesco World Heritage site.
And heritage is key to ethos of the hotel, formerly known as the Roxburghe, which has reopened after a multi-million pound refit.
For although there is ample evidence in both the bedrooms and communal areas of serious money having been spent, the hotel also exudes a timeless quality, appropriate for a site incorporating seven inter-connecting townhouses which date back to 1791.
Georgian features have been retained and the book-lined study is a home from home. The same applies to the adjoining bar.
I didn’t test management’s claim that no two rooms are the same. But despite housing 199 of them, the feel is not of your standard chain hotel.
Mine was spacious with minimal noise from the neighbours and the nice welcoming touches offered by the chain; a tuck box of chocolate, lollies and crisps to enjoy with the complimentary hot drinks.
With regional loyalty, the chocolate biscuits were Tunnock’s and the milk was fresh, alongside free still and sparkling water. You can also populate the fridge with supplies from the hotel’s own corner shop.
Tunnock’s aside, the tartan aspect in my room was restricted to the throw over the large and sink-into bed. There was a choice of comfy non-matched seating and the phone was retro red, standing out among more restful colours. Meanwhile toiletries have been created by celebrity favourite Londonbased perfume designer Azzi Glasser.
And you can dine well — although there’s plenty of choice, and the city’s sights, within walking distance too. The Garden, suitably bright and verdant, does a decent veggie version of a Scottish cooked breakfast as well as food all day. Or the eastern Mediterranean sharing plates at new addition BABA won’t break the bank.
RATES: Rooms from around £140. phcompany.com
BARRY TOBERMAN