A SLICE OF MY LIFE:

I hopped off the Metropolitan line at Aldgate to check out the Zest pop up at Bevis Marks synagogue. It was worth the schlep.

Fully booked on a Wednesday lunchtime, the room is simply furnished, making the food the star of the show.

Chef Robin BeParry has worked in the kitchens of Marco Pierre White and Gordon Ramsay as well as at West London instution, Daphne’s. The non-Jewish chef has brought his wide experience to create a Middle Eastern/ Mediterranean menu awash with fresh flavours and colourful ingredients.

Chunky lentil and sweet potato soup was packed with whole lentils and hearty cubes of veg. A slab of thick, chewy, toasted challah on the side made it a meal in itself. My dining partner — Zest general manager —Joshua Owens-Baigler’s sticky chicken wings were perfectly cooked and prettily presented. We shared the smoked mackerel challah sandwich I’d been chalashing. More of that perfect challah under flakes of mackerel, sweet apple slaw and salty grated roe. A sarnie worthy of cult status.

Pan-fried bream (right) on a rustic mound of saffron-braised canellini beans was the sunshine I’ve been missing this year; while OwensBaigler’s salt beef, spiced with Arab spice, ras el hanout, was a clever Ashkenazi/Sephardi mash-up.

Frickles (deep fried pickles) a side order invented by BeParry at a previous restaurant — could easily have been a classic Jewish food.

Classic Claudia Roden orange and almond cake made a perfect finish. City workers should book in. They are awaiting an alcohol licence but you can bring your own for now. VP.

Open Monday - Friday lunch only until July www.zestatJW3.co.uk