Jerusalem rebuilt in Prague

ACCORDING TO legend, angels brought stones from the Second Temple in Jerusalem to build the Old-New Synagogue (Altneuschul) in Prague — where another legend tells that the body of the city’s golem still lies in the attic. Prague’s Jewish quarter is Josefov. There has been a Jewish population here since at least 965 CE.

The Old-New synagogue is one of the oldest preserved Gothic buildings in the Czech capital, with a distinctive twin nave. It dates from the 13th century and is also the oldest active synagogue building in Europe — and just one of many reasons to tempt visitors to Prague. It was built later than the

original Old Synagogue (now demolished), so it was originally named the New Synagogue. As more shuls were built, the mediaeval site was both new and old — so it gained its unusual name.

WHAT TO SEE

The Jewish quarter, between the Vltava River and the Old Town (or Stare Mesto), is home to six synagogues and the Old Jewish Cemetery, where earliest burials took place in 1439.

With graves stacked 12 tombs deep, to hold even a fraction of the number of Jews who lived in the city before the cemetery was closed in 1787, you can still see some of the most famous including those of Rabbi Loew, creator of the golem, and Rabbi Avigdor Kara, the oldest in the cemetery today.

The Old-New Synagogue has since been joined by four other major Renaissance shuls — the Pinkas, where Hebrew o’clock at the town hall even supply kosher breakfasts to a number of different hotels around the city, provided you book your room through the site. Franz Kafka attended services, as well as the Maisel and Klausen Synagogues, plus the High Synagogue, named after its position on the first floor of the Jewish Town Hall, whose clock has Hebrew letters instead of numbers.

Later than these came the beautiful Spanish Synagogue, with its Moorish style and the Jerusalem Synagogue, displaying Art Nouveau and Moorish influences.

Today, the city’s Jewish Museum comprises four of the synagogues – the Maisel, Spanish, Pinkas and Klausen — as well as the cemetery and Ceremonial Hall, with exhibitions covering everything from Jewish history and tradition to collections of children’s drawings from Terezin. The museum can also arrange tours of the Old-New Synagogue.

WHERE TO EAT

As one would expect in a city with a thriving Jewish population, Prague is home to several kosher restaurants.

King Solomon restaurant, Josefov

The oldest kosher restaurant in the Czech Republic, it serves plenty of traditional dishes from the area — including carp pâté and lamb in carrot sauce — as well as other kosher meat dishes — and other classics, from gefilte fish to hummus.

There is a daily menu for lunch and dinner, Sunday to Thursday, as well as Shabbat dinner and lunch which must be pre-booked and there is a takeaway service. kosher.cz/en

Shalom restaurant, Josefov Run by the Jewish community, this fleishig restaurant is inside the Jewish Town Hall and open for lunch daily (except Sundays).

As well as a daily three-course menu, there is a special Shabbat and holiday menu. Book well in advance for these. kehilaprag.cz/en/tourism/restaurantsalom

Chabad Shelanu restaurant Split into two different restaurants around five minutes apart, the grill (fleishig) is in the Old Town with a pizza restaurant (milchig) in Josefov, the latter offering pasta, salads, fish and sandwiches as well as the pizza.

Chabad also operates its own kosher mini-market, selling dairy products, snacks and sweets, at the Chabad Centre on U Milosrdnych 6.

This is also where the grill is based, and where you can book Shabbat dinner and lunch.

They will also give you details of apartments to rent on request. chabadprague.cz

Dinitz

In the Old Town, Dinitz is not far from the Spanish Synagogue and serves meat and parev dishes. Supervised by the Chief Rabbinate of the Czech Republic, it also offers takeaway and delivery — handy if you are staying in self-catering accommodation.

Inspired by Middle Eastern cuisine, there are fish-based pasta dishes and a kids’ menu, along with grills. And the restaurant also has an option to book for Shabbat dinner and lunch, although you will need to reserve at least a week in advance for this. dinitz.cz/en

Restaurant King David

This five-star boutique hotel is in the Nove Mesto, or new town, with its own kosher restaurant. As well as daily buffet breakfast for guests and those not staying (albeit for around £21 per person), there is dinner available on Sunday to Thursday and Shabbat, plus pre-paid Shabbat lunch on Saturday (booking necessary). The hotel can also prepare a breakfast box and lunch box for Saturday.

Refurbished in 2014, with its own synagogue and men’s mikvah, as well as a women’s mikvah open by appointment, it is around 20 minutes from Josefov. hotelkingdavid.cz/en/home.htm