GETTING THERE
its own exact rules, with some patrolled by both lifeguards and police to ensure social distancing is maintained.
But all this sounds a lot more Big Brother than it actually is. When we visited Moliets in June, the first day we had been allowed to travel more than 100km since March, the beach was quiet but it was business as usual. People swam, children built sandcastles and surfers surfed. No one wore masks. It felt like any other day at the seaside.
In the restaurants, it was a little more obvious that things had changed. Arrows on the floor directed customers to come in one door and leave through another where possible. At Grill de l’Océan, one of the few restaurants open on what was effectively the first day of the season, they were following all the safety protocols laid down by the Government. At the entrance, we were given a large squirt of hand sanitiser and offered the chance to download a menu from a QR code (though traditional menus were also available).
Masks were obligatory while coming in, going out or moving around the restaurant but once at the table, they weren’t necessary. No eating or drinking was allowed at the bar and the waiters wore masks all the time. There were no salt and pepper pots on the table — though paper sachets were available on request — and as each group left, the chairs were thoroughly wiped down, along with the tables. However, the atmosphere was one of celebration rather than fear or nervousness, as everyone delighted in being able to visit a restaurant for the first time in months. Once seated at the table, apart from the staff’s masks, things felt normal. The rules here are fairly simple, even if your French is normally limited to ordering baguettes and a bouteille or two of wine. In most tourist resorts, there are pictures or signs in various languages to remind you what to do. And if in doubt, if you follow the lead of those around you, you are unlikely to go far wrong.
Aline Marchand, the mayor of Moliets, was feeling positive about the summer season when I met her during our visit. “All of the Landes beaches are fully open,” she said. “They are very large and there is plenty of room for social distancing. Visitors will be able to do almost all the things they like to do on holiday this summer — golf, walks in groups of less than 10 and cycling. Most of the markets are open as usual and many smaller events where we can limit numbers will take place.
“We have had to cancel our July 14 fireworks though, because the crowds are too large. But people can swim, surf, sunbathe and picnic as they want. Everything is open and we are looking forward to welcoming our guests.”
The golf course was already looking busy and Adrenaline Parc — a high ropes course with air bags and the like — was also open. We hired bikes from Vélos du Golf to explore some of the many
Villa with private pool at Moliets on the French coast, a relaxing holiday base for Catherine Cooper and family local cycle paths, past the main town beach and down to the near-deserted Plage de ChênesLièges, then back through the golf course.
Most hotels throughout the country are expected to be open this summer, as well as campsites where people have private washing facilities (such as in mobile homes). Campsites with shared shower blocks and toilets are opening with new measures in place, including extra cleaning and strict social distancing rules. The numbers allowed to stay might be lower than usual and guests will be expected to socially distance in the restaurants and bars.
Many hotels are offering table service even where they would usually offer a buffet, or plating up individual portions for people to help themselves. Public and shared pools are generally open, though where social distancing is tricky on the terraces, sunbathing may be forbidden and/or the numbers entering restricted.
If you’re self-catering — or searching for souvenirs — shop owners have the right to refuse you entry without a mask should they wish but generally, while the shop staff themselves usually wear masks, it is up to the customers to decide if they want to or not. At some shops you may have to queue to get in, though rarely in supermarkets. Some changing rooms are open and they quarantine the clothes after they have been tried on; others are closed. Many shops have perspex screens to protect the person behind the cash register. Most markets have reopened as well — some busier ones, such as the night market at Moliets, are still cancelled, while others have been operating a oneway system, with hand sanitiser at the entrance. But in many cases, the chance to stroll between stalls, picking up food and soaking up the atmosphere, is unchanged this summer.
One service station we stopped at was counting people in and out, which could lead to large queues in high summer as you drive to your destination, but even this was far from universal.
In fact, unless you are travelling in a group larger than 10, apart from the presence of masks, there is little that will make this summer’s holiday in France very different to any other. Bonnes vacances!
A WEEK at Villas La Clairière aux Chevreuils in a three-bed villa sleeping eight, with private pool, costs from £432 per person (£3,458 total) this summer with Summer France (summerfrance. co.uk).
Adult bike hire from Vélos du Golf starts at around £35 for six days.
Various ferry routes to France are in operation, as well as the Eurotunnel. Check the latest travel restrictions and quarantine rules before booking.
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