Making waves
Rebecca Barnes boards the Scarlet Lady to discover how different a Virgin Voyages cruise really is…
IT’S 10AM, somewhere in the English Channel, and a group of around 15 passengers are working off their breakfasts on the pool deck, throwing shapes to the pumping music. The mood is uplifting and instantly brings a smile to my face — I’m not the only one, most of the other onlookers lounging round the pool are also getting into the groove.
Hours later, I’m jumping around myself in a high energy workout featuring an 80s playlist and toned instructors with slightly suggestive banter. While levels of commitment vary, at least everyone in the club looks the part in neon legwarmers, sweatbands and headbands. The smile is still on my face and as exercise classes go, it’s by far the most enjoyable 50 minutes I’ve ever had on a cruise ship.
If you think that cruising involves dreary décor, regimental dining and 9pm bedtimes, think again — Virgin Voyages aims to smash such perceptions while bringing about an ‘epic sea change for all,’ in a contemporary, yachtstyle atmosphere.
When I first learnt about the newly launched line, I was more than curious about the industry ‘disruptors’. But at the same time, I just wasn’t sure that some of the boundary-pushing concepts would translate on a real sailing: seasoned cruisers will definitely find it a very different experience.
Richard Branson’s original concept was always to turn traditional cruising on its head, and Scarlet Lady — on which I, and 1,150 other double-vaccinated Sailors (Virgin’s name for passengers), am cruising for this Summer Soirée staycation voyage — looks more like a boutique hotel than a cruise ship.
From the wearable bands that pay for purchases and open your cabin door, to the clever automatic sensors that turn on the lights and open the curtains when you step inside, tech plays a big part; the phone app even allows you to ‘shake for champagne’ for bubbly on-demand, as well as order room service, book restaurants, shows and activities.
Virgin Voyages is an adults-only cruise line offering a relaxed yet elevated experience. Everyone including the ‘young at heart,’ is welcome and there is no dress code, although if you want to rock a sequin gown every night, you may do so.
There are no ports of call on this particular four-night sailing but nobody seems to care — they’re all having too much fun. If you want peace and quiet however, this is probably not the cruise for you. In line with Virgin’s DNA, there’s music almost everywhere and is most evident on deck seven where you’ll find the Voyage Vinyl record store and DJ booth.
The nautical theme is everywhere too, from the friendly greetings of ‘Ahoy!’ to the design aesthetic. Pops of colour fuse with modern touches of rope, wood and brass, plus porthole windows you can sit in and sustainable handwoven hammocks. You can even take away a permanent maritime memento from the on-board tattoo studio, Squid Ink.
But it’s the accommodation which really sets this ship apart from other lines: there are six categories, from inside cabins to 78 hedonistic RockStar suites designed by Tom Dixon — purposely chosen because he had never worked on a cruise ship before. These palatial pads include luxury marble bathrooms, a fully stocked bar, personal riders, record players complete with vinyl, electric guitars and personal concierges.
My Sea Terrace cabin has a modern boutique hotel vibe, but is still comfortable with a decent sized balcony and hammock to lounge in. In these space-optimised cabins, the beds can also be transformed into sofas for more room in the daytime, although I choose to keep mine in bed mode.
Along with controlling the TV (featuring free movies) and operating the lights and curtains, the mood lighting scenes on the in-room tablet, ranging from ‘Hangover’ (which came into its own one day) to ‘Pump it Up’ and ‘Get it On’ are not just a gimmick but a useful addition.
I find a pack of face masks by the bed as part of Virgin’s Voyage Well initiatives; there’s also complimentary water daily, free wifi, USB sockets near the bed, and a mini fridge — handy when the ship sails in the Caribbean. I’m also amused to discover that the amenities packs (available for an additional cost) focus on adult pleasure instead of more traditional shower caps and nail files.
The bathroom is small but well appointed; there could be more storage space though. Toiletries are in mounted dispensers eliminating wasteful plastic bottles, and the rain shower head screams designer cool — not ideal if you don’t want to wet your hair, although there is a hand shower attachment.
Designer style infiltrates throughout the ship, resulting in unique and individual spaces in which to drink, dine and snap a selfie or two. Dixon’s pendant lighting has been used to stunning effect at the entrance to Mexican cantina Pink Agave, while The Wake restaurant features a grand sweeping staircase that descends into the sophisticated dining room.
There are more than 20 places to eat created by Michelin-starred chefs, and all food is included, as are basic beverages: unlike other lines there’s no specialty dining and the choice is incredible. Each restaurant has its own satellite kitchen, meaning that food is made to order and there’s less waste.
Whatever your tastes and dietary requirements, from vegetarianforward and experimental tasting menus to Korean barbecue, pizza, sushi and tacos around the pool, this ship has you covered. There’s even free ice cream on tap at the popular ‘Lick Me Till Ice Cream’ shop.
The Galley is Virgin’s take on a buffet, a food hall with various cuisines and the flexibility to eat in or take out: it feels quite novel to be able to grab a bento box at lunchtime to eat wherever I fancy. We also spend much of the time enjoying pre-dinner cocktails at The Dock House, with its laid-back, beach club vibe.
I become mildly addicted to the zingy acai breakfast bowl at Razzle Dazzle — one of the best things I’ve ever tasted. Along with the infamous drag brunches, this fun, vibrant eatery also offers up rainbow sprinkles on toast and probiotic hash, amidst more traditional dishes.
Out on deck the wow factor keeps on coming, with a surprise around every corner. There are two pools — a main one and a large whirlpool — plus numerous hot tubs.
Wellness is a huge focus on board. There’s a blowdry bar, barber shop, nail salon which I visit for an oceanview pedicure before Scarlet Night, and the beautiful Redemption Spa, a tranquil enclave ideal for escaping the buzz of the ship.
To get your fitness fix, head to decks 16 and 17; a cross between a vintage athletics club and an adult adventure playground, here you’ll find everything from seesaws and swings to a basketball court and a boxing ring. One sunny morning I decide to get my steps in on the running track that sits halo-like over the ship as an alternative to pounding the treadmill inside, with fresh sea air as a bonus.
Exercise classes are also free, and include my aforementioned 80s workout, plus barre, vinyasa yoga, meditation and spin. When you’re not working up a sweat, you’ll find plenty of places to relax on deck, from huge beds and loungers to free and paid for private cabanas.
There’s definitely a festival feel about the ship, and the entertainment is immersive, edgy, sometimes risqué and slightly bonkers at times. The eclectic mix includes impromptu music performances, bands, pyjama parties, workshops, micro plays and acrobatic shows such as Duel Reality, a retelling of Romeo and Juliet with a circus twist, which has me on the edge of my seat.
If you want to party all night long, don’t miss Scarlet Night where you can dance till dawn in arguably the best nightclub on the ocean, or catch pop-up music acts such as the Reggae-influenced band that stopped me in my tracks just as I’d decided to call it a night.
As you know, I needed some convincing before stepping on board, but this Sailor has definitely been won over by Virgin’s bold new approach.
And while it’s not going to float everyone’s boat, it just might be the future of cruising.