Biotech firm teams up with fashion brand in lab-grown leather deal
PIONEERING biotech firm 3D Bio-Tissues has signed an agreement with fashion brand Maison Amelie Pichard to incorporate its lab-grown leather into handbags.
The Newcastle University spinout, which has developed technology for growing tissues, has put in place a memorandum of understanding with the French brand, which specialises in using environmentally friendly materials for its made-to-order bags, shoes and accessories.
3D Bio-Tissues (3DBT) will work with the designer to explore commercial opportunities and develop products in what it says is the first time lab-grown leather has been ethically produced for the fashion industry using the same structures as traditional leather.
The firm’s cultivation process removes the need for plant-based scaffolds, which is said to make it suitable for traditional craft purposes. Amelie’s Pichard’s model involves using worldwide craftsmen to create small batches of products, and often using unusual materials such as pineapple leaves, eel leather and upcycled denim.
Both firms hope the collaboration can reduce Amelie Pichard’s reliance on leather products. 3DBT will create a number of materials for use in production and repairs. BSF, the London Stock Exchange-listed owner of 3DBT, is planning to set up a separate subsidiary dedicated to lab-grown leather and the firm is also building a leather tanning facility at its Newcastle laboratories.
Amelie Pichard, founder and creative director of the company said: “I drew a lot of inspiration from the farming world of yesteryear to give my company a different approach to fashion. A direct sale, a company on a human scale, a de-standardisation, a sustainability of craftsmanship, a natural rhythm.
“For me, using natural, laboratory grown leather that doesn’t harm animals or the planet represents technology at the service of good innovation. I’m delighted to be able to create a real bridge between innovation and tradition with this first lab-grown-leather goods item.”
Che Connon, managing director of BSF Enterprise and CEO of 3DBT, said: “We are delighted to be collaborating with a company that has led the way in environmentally friendly fashion. Utilising lab-grown leather is an inevitable next step for the fashion industry if it is to create a sustainable future and it is extremely exciting to be working toward being the first at doing this. We look forward to providing further updates on the progress of this partnership in due course.”
Earlier this year 3DBT published results for the year to the end of September 2023 in which it saw losses widen to £1.5m owing to costs associated with BSF’s acquisition of the Tyneside firm.
During the period it also landed a €612,000 grant from the European Institute of Innovation and Technology (EIT Food) towards development of its City-Mix cell growth agent which is crucial to its labgrown meat and leather processes.
Utilising lab-grown leather is an inevitable next step for the fashion industry Che Connon