Northern enlightenment
I’D NEVER thought very much about Scandinavia. To me, it always seemed like a secondtier travel destination, a remote and expensive region that I would make time for later in life. Now I know – after a sevennight cruise in August with Holland America – that it’s a must-visit part of Europe. In addition to its cosmopolitan, vibrant cities, there are vast expanses of unspoiled, often wild terrain, from the spectacular Norwegian fjords to the azure-blue lakes of Sweden.
We boarded our vessel in Copenhagen to begin a short cruise that would take in the fjords, Oslo, Kristiansand and Gothenburg. Introduced in 2008, Holland America’s handsome flagship, MS Eurodam, offers a relaxed onboard ambience that blends elements from past and present. So there are nights where formal dress is insisted upon, but also a spa, theatre, cinema and excellent bars and restaurants.
Flam was the first port of call, a Norwegian village that boasts the country’s oldest railway. In the summer season the train ascends to a glacier daily, offering panoramic views of some of the most spectacular scenery in Scandinavia. It’s also one of the steepest railway lines in the world, so vertigo-sufferers take note. We stopped briefly to photograph the tallest waterfall in the region, and more photo opportunities were to come.
In the evening the ship sailed out of the Aurlandsfjord, which was the journey’s most breathtaking highlight. This narrow corridor of ocean that meanders towards the North Sea solicited oohs and aahs from passengers overawed by its snow-covered mountains shimmering brightly at dusk, soaring up from nowhere.
During the next three days I became acquainted with Kristiansand, Oslo and Gothenburg.
Oslo is a very pleasant city to stroll around, with numerous parks, avenues and neo-classical buildings, but the real tourist draw is the opera house – a majestic combination of glass and marble. You can climb to the top of the roof, as of course we did. Just remember, though, that a single coffee inside can set you back £10.
Gothenburg, Sweden’s second city, is smaller but prettier, with cafelined boulevards.
We left the Eurodam in Copenhagen, where we greedily snatched a few final hours before our flight. It was perhaps fitting to save the best to last – the city has several fine Renaissance buildings, including the splendid Rosenborg Castle, but we did what most tourists do, and quickly headed to the city’s Nyhavn harbour and its picturepostcard promenade, bustling with cafes and charming pastel-coloured, gabled townhouses.
As I boarded my flight home, I knew that Nyhavn would not easily be forgotten – and neither would the rest of Scandinavia.