Oz, the slow way
THERE is something irresistibly romantic about a rail holiday. It’s not just the nostalgic glamour long associated with these slow journeys – it’s the sense of adventure that comes with disembarking and exploring at each stop.
And, as I discover while travelling through the Outback on The Ghan, it’s not just an experience reserved for the Old World.
The locomotive, named after the Afghan cameleers who used to cross this remote region of Australia, is one of the most popular ways to travel between the Northern Territories and Adelaide.
I’m booked into one of the 258 Gold cabins. There’s just about enough room for me to get et in with my things and, aside from a banquette-cumbed, it looks a little sparse. But it takes no time at all to discover the compact but well organised bathroom, where a shower, toilett and a secret towel rack k slots into what appears att first to be a cupboard.
Within minutes of boarding, I’m sipping a cup of Earl Grey from a porcelain cup while upbeat jazz floats from the radio.
On the seasonal Ghan an Expedition service from m Darwin to Adelaide, which takes four days, passengers have the opportunity to hop off and enjoy excursions in harder-to-reach spots such as Alice Springs and Coober Pedy.
If you’re feeling flush, you can also book one of the optional daytrips to Uluru on a light aircraft. You need a strong stomach for the bumpy ride but it’s the best view of Australia’s most famous landmark you could hope for.
In some respects, the Expedition service is just an overland cruise – the ticket includes a choice of excursions, as well as all meals and drinks – only it’s much friendlier. Instead of having dinner within your own group, you’re constantly thrust into the com- pany of the other passengers, where scrolling through your phone is definitely frowned upon.
It helps to be an adventurous conversationalist because you may find yourself talking about everything from backpacking through South America to the current economic climate in New Zealand. Perfect if you, like me, are travelling alone.
One really surprising thing is how good the food is, especially considering the size of the kitchen.
The choice of dishes at each meal will easily rival a Michelin-starred restaurant, all while showcasing regional ingredients. The crocodile boudin blanc, buffalo massaman and peach tarte tatin are among my favourites.
The Ghan Expedition is now so popular that it operates for six months a year. I’m not surprised. It’s a trip of a lifetime and yet I can’t wait to go back.