The Mail on Sunday

Having her cake and heating it! Mary gives in to blowtorch craze

THEN . . . A MERINGUE HARANGUE. NOW . . . SHE’S ALL FIRED UP

- By Chris Hastings

SHE has long disdained the blowtorch as a needless ‘fancy’ extravagan­ce – but Bake Off star Mary Berry has now turned up the heat in the kitchen with an extraordin­ary U-turn.

Tomorrow night the doyenne of British cooking will be seen brandishin­g the controvers­ial gadget to glaze ‘wickedly delicious’ cupcakes in her BBC2 series Mary Berry Everyday.

And she candidly tells viewers: ‘I have finally succumbed to a blowtorch. I’ve always had a grill up until now. But I have to admit it’s rather efficient.’

Last September, the 82-year-old Great British Bake Off judge spluttered with disbelief on the show as eventual winner Candice Brown and other contestant­s used blowtorche­s when finishing off their meringues. Ms Berry complained

‘I have to admit it’s rather efficient’

to fellow judge Paul Hollywood: ‘I am not too happy that they are nearly all using a blowtorch, and to me meringue topping is best put in the oven to get a crunchines­s.’

Her remarks followed a similar outburst two years ago on the show when she provoked uproar during one of the signature challenges by introducin­g a one- off ban on ‘these fancy blowtorche­s’ before the contestant­s glazed their creme brulees.

She told them: ‘There weren’t such things as blowtorche­s when I was young. You did it under a grill.’

Eventual champion Nadiya Hussain was left reeling, telling Ms Berry: ‘It will be interestin­g to see what it’s like in the grill because I’m used to the blowtorch method.’

But an unrepentan­t Berry told her: ‘Not everyone has a blowtorch.’

Yet Ms Berry has abandoned her former hard line for tomorrow’s show, in which she prepares cakes to celebrate the 50th anniversar­y of her wedding to Paul Hunnings.

She uses the torch to give her lemon meringue and strawberry cupcakes a glaze.

Her turnaround will be welcomed by some viewers who had objected to her creme brulee ban.

At the time one tweeted ‘But the blowtorch is the best bit – that’s why you make brulee!,’ adding that Ms Berry was a ‘spoilsport’.

Several members of the public also pulled her up on her contention that blowtorche­s hadn’t been around when she was young. One wrote: ‘The blowtorch was invented in 1797. Mary Berry is more than 200 years old.’

The blowtorch is traditiona­lly used to caramelise sugar, heating it to the point that it melts and then cools as a hard glaze.

Ms Berry’s blowtorch U-turn is a fitting end to a series that has courted controvers­y.

Her admission that she preferred to add white rather then red to a spaghetti bolognese – along with cream – divided opinion, and she was criticised for baking a potato, leek and cheese ‘pie’ which lacked a pastry bottom. Her critics claimed she had simply made a casserole with a lid.

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