Make a real splash!
Nothing brings a garden to life like a water feature – and you can squeeze one into any sized plot
THERE are some watery wonders that people with small gardens can only dream of owning, such as a large wildlife pond or a chain of pools linked by streams. Yet even those with a plot the size of a postage stamp have space for a compact feature that can still make a big splash.
In my own garden, for example, I’ve installed a raised fibre glass pool measuring 3 ft wide by 3 ft deep. It boasts a bell fountain in the centre and is home to plants such as dwarf papyrus. There are plenty of other options. A contemporary sunken pool or a rill – a narrow water channel – are perfect. Even those with a tiny garden could squeeze in a bubble fountain to add interest – it doubles up as a birdbath.
No matter what its size, a water feature will add movement to a static space, while the gurgle or gentle splash from a fountain provides relaxing background sounds.
An added bonus is that it provides gardeners with the opportunity to grow a wide range of beautiful aquatic plants.
My raised pond attracts dragonflies and damselflies, but water features at ground level will really become a magnet for wildlife. Birds and hedgehogs will use it as a watering hole, and frogs, toads and newts will find refuge under the surface.
When adding a water feature, think carefully about where to place it. Aquatic plants will thrive only if they receive sunlight, so avoid siting anywhere that’s heavily shaded. A spot that receives partial shade is ideal, as too much sun can promote the growth of algae, while too much shade will result in low oxygen levels in your pond.
Raised pools are great in formal or contemporary gardens, creating a focal point. They can be made from scratch with bricks, stone or wooden sleepers lined with butyl rubber to make it watertight. Alternatively, buy a ready-made fibreglass tank.
My tank was easy to set in place. I marked out the area for the pond with strings attached to canes, then dug a shallow hole between the strings. I spread sharp sand along the bottom and raked it level to prevent damage to the structure once it was put in position. A pump was placed in the centre and wired to a switch box on an outside wall by a qualified electrician – the cable running from the tank to the electrical source was covered with a protective sleeve and buried under the ground. Once all the work was completed, the tank was filled with water. Ponds are an attractive feature that can be adapted to suit any garden. They can be any shape or size, but look best with an outline consisting of sweeping curves, not straight l i nes. The centre needs to be between 2 ft and 3 ft deep, while one third of the edge should slope gently to allow wildlife access. The remaining perimeter should include some wide ‘shelves’ for standing plants in pots. As a rule, aim to cover a least a third of the surface with plants to prevent algae from growing. Use a combination of submerged oxygenating plants, free-floating aquatics and dwarf water lilies, such as yellow Nymphaea ‘Pygmaea Helvola’. Marginal plants are probably the most valuable group, because they will provide colour and interest all year. Water irises are the most glamorous examples, with beautiful flowers and striking foliage, while equisetum, dwarf reed mace and flowering rush add height. Glyceria maxima var. variegata, Carex riparia ‘Variegata’ and several other grasses are ideal for adding bulk and quick coverage. If marginal plants are supplied in traditional pots, transfer them to mesh-sided aquatic containers – use special aquatic compost and cover compost with gravel to prevent it being stirred up by moving water. Arrange on shelves in ponds or elevate on blocks placed in raised pools.