Corner of Croatia that’s as tasty as Tuscany
YOU know that feeling when you arrive in a new city and wonder what there is to see and do? There’s none of that with Pula in northern Croatia. My husband Nick and I gawp in astonishment as our plane flies over an enormous Roman amphitheatre – right in the middle of the city – that would give Rome’s Colosseum a run for its money.
On the ground, Pula Arena is even more spectacular. Dating from 27 BC, it is one of the world’s largest and most complete colosseums: 100ft walls are a soaring limestone latticework of arches and apertures built to accommodate 23,000 bloodthirsty spectators.
But today we have the place virtually to ourselves, and we explore the well-preserved terraces and tunnels at our leisure.
Set on the Adriatic close to the Italian and Slovenian borders on the Istrian peninsula, Pula has been a thriving port since Roman times and the colosseum is one of a number of historic attractions all within easy walking distance of each other.
We spend a lovely crowd-free day discovering the stunning Roman Temple of Augustus and the imposing Arch of the Sergii, as well as the 4th Century Pula Cathedral said d to have been built with stones s looted from the Arena itself.
Istria was also an important part of the Venetian Empire, and today Pula’s strategically important port is overlooked by a forbidding Venetian fortress dating from 1630.
BUT to see the affection the Venetians felt for r the area, we head 30 0 minutes up the coast t to Rovinj, which is s known as the Blue Pearl l of the Adriatic. It’s a lovely drive, the road skirting a green blanket of ancient forests, softly undulating farmland, , rolling vineyards and olive groves, , dotted with villages that meander r down to the impossibly blue waters s of the Adriatic.
And Rovinj is stunning. On a hill, , the town is a tight spiral of cobbled d streets and elegant piazzas, lined d with pastel-painted baroque buildings, winding upwards to the majestic St Euphemia church on top.
Modelled on St Mark’s Basilica in Venice, St Euphemia soars 200ft into the sky – a handy navigation tool as Nick and I get repeatedly lost on our hired bicycles in the pretty back alleys filled with artists’ studios and boutiques.
There are plenty of wine bars and restaurants, too, as the food here is very good.
With its famously fertile fields and high-quality seafood, Istria has been dubbed ‘The New Tuscany’ by foodies. We sample local delicacies at the farmers’ market in the main square and graze stalls of delicious creamy cheeses, pungent truffles and glossy fat olives, all with a wine glass in hand, courtesy of the flourishing local network of small-scale wineries and olive oil producers ( including award- winning Brist just outside Pula, whose olive groves date from Roman times).
In Rovinj, the best place to try local cuisine is Kantinon, a harbourside restaurant specialising in traditional Istrian seafood dishes paired with superb local wines.
Sun dances on fishing boats bobbing in the harbour as we feast on fresh squid, delicious sea bream and truffle-topped pasta, washed down with delicate local Malvasia white and robust Teran red wines.
Istria i s an absolute crowdpleaser, but happily the crowds haven’t cottoned on. Yet.