A dazzling return to Dundee
I ONCE played tennis with Elton John in Dundee. It was before he’d released his first single, and I can tell you he had a killer forehand.
That was just one of the memories of my 12 years as editor of Jackie magazine when I worked in the Scottish city. David Bowie bought me champagne after his Ziggy Stardust gig at the city’s Caird Hall, and I repaid his generosity by ticking him off: ‘I do think, David, that if a man is going to wear nail varnish, it should at least not be chipped.’ Luckily, he laughed.
At that time Dundee was the place that time forgot. It had heart and warmth but had long since lost its spirit, and despite its beautiful setting on the north shore of the River Tay estuary, it was a dump.
If you’d told me then that the Cinderella of Scottish cities would currently be bidding to be European Capital of Culture 2023, I wouldn’t have believed you.
But today the city has changed so much it should be renamed New Dundee. Flying in you can see it, even before you land at the dinky riverside airport.
The waterfront area, its greatest asset but in the past woefully neglected, is now transformed. Today you can spot gardens and the stunning shape of the gorgeous new structure reaching out over the water.
Dundee was not just famous for its cake but for the three Js: jam, jute and journalism. Now there are two more letters vital to the city: V and A. The new structure is the V&A Museum of Design Dundee, the first branch outside of London. Designed by Kengo Kuma, it’s due to open next year. It is already a thrilling sight. From some angles it looks like the prow of a ship, and it links the city and the water.
Viewing it from the deck of the adjacent RRS Discovery (Scott’s Antarctic, Dundee-built expedition ship which is on display), I had to pinch myself. Is this really here? Much in the Kevin Costner spirit of ‘if you build it, they will come’, the plan is that visitors will boost the regeneration. And it lured me back with my husband Grant. What fun we had in sunny New Dundee.
There’s a fresh spirit, summed up by the multi-million-pound makeover of publisher DC Thomson’s headquarters where I once worked. The old Victorian building, which loomed in gloom, has been opened up to dazzling light and air and to the world. Opposite, The McManus art gallery is celebrating 150 years with a magical exhibition of local Scottish artist Calum Colvin’s photographic artworks. I bought designer earrings at Dundee Contemporary Arts, marvelling at the cool space, a hub of creativity and full of life.
Everywhere there was something new: our room at the waterfront Apex Hotel overlooked City Quay and we zipped along the river on a Seafari to view the V&A from the water and to spot dolphins, and went on a Crimes of Passion Walking Tour: the city’s dark history brought to vivid life.
The opening night of the season at Dundee Rep, a world-class production of August: Osage County, was buzzing. We later had the stunning tasting menu at Castlehill from chef Graham Campbell, and delicious cocktails before superb scallops at Tayberry.
Dundee has always had its cake. Now hopefully it’s going to eat it.