Taste the real Italy
WE discovered Sarnano in 2006. A friend had invited us to stay in his house close to this little-known but spectacularly beautiful town in Le Marche. ‘You’ll love it,’ he said, as we climbed through the Brunforte Arch, the only survivor of four ancient entry gates to this walled hilltown. We did. It was love at first sight.
Italy’s Le Marche region is like a working Tuscany. Rolling hills are a patchwork of small fields, each of which seems to have a man on a tractor in it. Or an old lady collecting firewood.
And all in the shadow of the Sibill i ni Mountains, 30 peaks over 6,500ft, winter ski slopes that burst into a riot of colour when the sun burns off the snow and wildflowers arrive in the spring.
From Sarnano, it’s 20 minutes by car to the ski lifts and 45 to the Adriatic coast. But if long, straight sandy beaches are not for you, there’s a fabulous freshwater lake with cold, clear water and fresh breezes when summer temperatures climb into the high 30s.
There’s horse-riding, mountainbike trails, numerous festivals in the town and surrounding area, and bars selling fantastic cappuccinos for £1. And then there’s the food. For about €20 (£17.50) a head, you can dine like kings. They’ll chargrill huge steaks in front of your eyes on a wood-burning grill.
The butchers (there are seven in Sarnano) raise the animals them- selves, so the flavour of the meat is intense. Vegetables, too, are all grown locally.
This was the world that was rocked on its heels by the four 2016 earthquakes. A world full of flavour and fun. Last year I had recently completed an internet TV series, Cookucina, to showcase the local food, and a book, A Recipe For Disaster, about the rollercoaster ride of making that series, and the joys and (minor) aggravations of an Englishman’s life in rural Italy. But then came the earthquakes, and for a while this world took on a different complexion – bruised but still staggeringly beautiful.
Many of the wonderful ancient buildings are damaged. Some of the museums and art galleries are temporarily closed for repairs.
But the food is just as good, the mountains just as steep, just as spectacular. The beaches are untouched, the lakes just as clean and clear. The locals, the marchigiani, are as welcoming as ever. Their restaurants still offer great food and delicious local wines at low prices. And in the agriturismos you can eat food grown right where you’re staying.
The earthquakes damaged many things, but not the beauty of this place nor the welcoming spirit of its people. Recovery will take a while and tourism can do much to help this hidden gem get back on its feet.
Stephen Phelps’s A Recipe For Disaster is published by Drayton Park Publishing, priced £8.99.