My homage to Catalonia
From 0 to 112mph in just five seconds – or 900 years in one day? Max Wooldridge does it all in this perfect corner of Spain
THERE is a downside to bagging a front-row seat on the fastest ride at Ferrari Land, the theme park at Port Aventura World in Spain. Protective eyewear is required to safeguard against potential bird strikes – the measure was introduced after one flew into the face of an unsuspecting thrill-seeker just days after the rollercoaster opened in April.
At nearly 370ft high, Red Force is Europe’s tallest and fastest rollercoaster. We rocketed from zero to 112mph in just five seconds, with a near-vertical climb and drop. The ride lasts only about 30 seconds, but it feels like an eternity.
There are other attractions at Ferrari Land, including Formula 1 racing simulators, and a miniature racetrack where small Ferraris chug around at snail’s pace.
Away from Port Aventura, our trip proceeded at a more leisurely pace. On the Costa Dorada, we sampled sumptuous seafood in Salou and fabulous ice cream in Cambrils, then toured Tarragona’s Roman remains – a large amphitheatre and the only forum in Catalonia.
We then headed inland to Reus, birthplace of the famous Catalan architect Antoni Gaudi. Although most closely associated with Barcelona, the architect spent his formative years in Reus.
A sculpture in the town shows Gaudi as a child, playing with some balls and sitting on a bench. The artwork was unveiled in 2002, as part of the celebrations marking the 150th anniversary of his birth.
We also visited the Priory Church of St Peter and its 16th Century bell tower which looms 200ft over Reus’s old town. Gaudi was baptised here, and the tower’s stone spiral staircase inspired part of his most famous creation, Barcelona’ s Sagrada Familia cathedral.
We passed modernist facades and strolled along narrow cobbled streets before ending up in the Gaudi Centre, a fascinating museum dedicated to the architect. It showcases his origins in Reus and connection with his home town during the period of Catalan Modernism and Art Nouveau.
We learned about his innovative visions and use of geometric shapes, and the landscapes that influenced him as a child. Afterwards, we sat in a bar on Mercadal Square and watched the world go by while enjoying a glass of Vermut de Reus, or red vermouth.
North of Reus, we headed to the marvellous Cistercian monastery of Poblet, a World Heritage Site and Europe’s largest inhabited Cistercian abbey.
The young Gaudi was inspired by the layout and design of this 12th Century sandstone monastery, traditionally the palace and burial ground of Catalan kings.
DURING a walk around the cloisters, we glimpsed some of the 31 Cistercian monks who live on the site. Afterwards, we dined in the restaurant next to the monastery. Initially we wondered if there was a vow of silence here, too. But no, other diners were simply reconnecting with their smart- phones. We were quiet, too, but that was because we were stunned after eating one of the best-value meals in Spain: a three- course lunch, including drinks and coffee, cost just €15.
Incidentally, to round off our Gaudi lesson, we learned that a tram knocked him down in June 1926 in Barcelona. His dishevelled appearance meant locals mistook him for a drunken tramp. He died from his injuries three days later.
In L’Espluga de Francoli we visited a museum devoted to Catalonia’s agricultural heritage. It provided a glimpse into a van- ished world of farming traditions, from old ways of preserving foods to the intricate work of basketmakers, woodmen and ropers.
The next day, we headed to another 12th Century medieval monastery, the ruins of Scala Dei. Built in 1194, this was the first Carthusian monastery on the Iberian Peninsula.
Carthusian monks were able to devote themselves to prayer in silence and solitude in splendid nature. They introduced Christianity to the region – and a culture of wine cultivation that still flourishes today.
In 1835, under the seizure of church property act, the monks were forced to abandon the monastery. The site was subsequently destroyed by fire.
The monks may have lost their footing, but the wine culture endures stronger than ever. At the Conreria d’Escaladei winery, we met three local friends – a teacher, a priest and a winemaker – behind the vineyard that produces various Priorat wines.
It was easy to enjoy the slow pace of country life here – quite a contrast to our white-knuckle ride at Ferrari Land.