The Mail on Sunday

Whisky galore in Edinburgh’s f inest

- By Sarah Turner

The Dunstane Houses Edinburgh B&B for 2 from £174 EDINBURGH doesn’t do insecurity – every building has an air of confidence. It’s especially true of The Dunstane Houses, a wonderful mid-19th Century property full of imposing staircases and grandiose fireplaces.

There are 16 rooms. Mine, on the first floor, has a vast copper bath in the bay window and views of the hills beyond Edinburgh, and is built on a scale Harry Potter’s chum Hagrid would find comfortabl­e.

Above all, there’s wraparound Scottishne­ss, from the bottles of Glenlivet water by the bed to a sofa covered in Orkney tweed. Staff have even managed to source whisky-scented toiletries; this is a hotel with some peat-rich humour running through it.

Dunstane’s restaurant is a winner too. In what was once the drawing room, there’s now a collection of tables amid velvet Chesterfie­ld sofas and a grand fireplace. At one end is a whisky- centric bar which is called the Ba’Bar in honour of the famous annual sortof-football game Orcadians play. The menu is a charmingly uncomplica­ted one, separated into ‘wee bites’ and ‘bigger bites’. The owners, Shirley and Derek Mowat, were born in the Orkneys.

The levels of indulgence feel very unScottish, though. The beds are Vispring (‘ If they’re good enough for the Queen, they’re good enough for us,’ says the manager). The staff are young, enthusiast­ic and polished.

On the night I stayed, Dunstane won Boutique Hotel of the Year and Shirley was named Hotelier of the

CHARMING:

The Ba’Bar and its impressive collection of whiskies Year but the staff on duty didn’t miss a beat.

The place:

Just outside the centre of Edinburgh, near Haymarket. Very handy for Murrayfiel­d and Edinburgh Airport. West Coates is a busy road, but the hotels are set away from i t and soundproof­ing is good.

The accommodat­ion:

Sixteen rooms in the main house, 19 in a sister property across the road. The decor there is nice, but I’d advise staying in Dunstane for sheer theatrical­ity and ease of access to the bar and restaurant.

The food:

Much of the food is sourced from Orkney, including salmon and Grimbister cheese, and the cullen skink soup and haggis bon-bons are divine. In the morning there’s full Scottish breakfast on offer, including porridge made the traditiona­l way with water and salt, or with cream and sugar.

 ?? ?? AWARD-WINNING: Dunstane Houses. Right: Sarah’s vast copper bath
AWARD-WINNING: Dunstane Houses. Right: Sarah’s vast copper bath
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