A lesson in old school charm
WHEN the Second World War broke out, about 350 girls from Roedean school in East Sussex were evacuated to a grand railway hotel in the Lake District.
Passengers alighting at Keswick could see science classes taking place in what had been the station waiting room.
The Bunsen burners may have gone, and so has Keswick’s railway station ( trains pulled in for the final time in 1972), but the hotel remains – three floors of solid Victoriana which once welcomed Kaiser Wilhelm II as a guest.
The friendly and ever- helpful staff at the Keswick Country House Hotel now offer a warm welcome to families, cyclists and Lake District walkers.
The ground floor is built on a stately scale, with a bar, drawing rooms and a restaurant looking out on to four acres of garden. In 2015, the nearby River Greta broke its banks during Storm Desmond – the hotel was unaffected but the grounds were flooded. However, the trees and shrubs, bowling lawns and tennis courts have since been restored to their former glory.
Upstairs, the Keswick’s rooms are spacious but several of the guests I spoke to felt that the hotel – and especially the bedrooms – needed a style injection so that they better complement thesurroundings.
Head outside and some of the Lake District’s finest scenery awaits you, including Castlerigg and Scafell Pike, the highest mountain in England.
The place:
The pulse point of the North Lakes, Keswick is everything you would want from a market town: bustling, packed with shops and cafes, and the launchpad for some serious walks, including to Latrigg and Castlehead.
The accommodation:
It might not be a school any longer, but some of the 70 rooms and suites have a slightly soulless feel.
At this price, guests deserve a bit more panache, including fresh milk in the rooms rather than little pots of the UHT variety and sachets of instant coffee.
The food:
A real high point – dinner in the Lonsdale restaurant was delicious, with smoked trout and grouse, followed by a selection of locally made cheeses.