Getting a taste of the delightful Dales
‘HELLO? Yes, Sergeant, this is Ramsgill 347… there’s been a murder! It’s the vicar – we found him face down in the muesli.’
Don’t panic, this bucolic corner of the Yorkshire Dales has seen no such nefarious deeds. But as I settle into my splendid bedroom, the vintage telephone and reconditioned pre-war radio remind me of a set from a Sunday night murder mystery drama.
After a 30-minute drive from Harrogate, the approach to Nidderdale takes you along the banks of the Gouthwaite Reservoir, before arriving in the hamlet of Ramsgill, where you’ll find the ivy-clad exterior of this restaurant-with-rooms next to the green.
Most of the ground floor – some of which dates from the 11th Century – is taken up with space for dining, either in the Little Dining Room or the grander main restaurant. There’s nothing trendy here: it’s elegant, grown-up and a real destination for foodies as Michelin-starred chef Frances Atkins is in the kitchen. She creates culinary magic for nightly five- or eight-course tasting menus. There is also a warmly furnished lounge on the same floor with a roaring fire for bracing autumn days, best enjoyed clutching a pint of Black Sheep Ale from Masham, or a glass of Harrogate gin.
There are 18 bedrooms, recently redesigned, with names such as Old Trout, Ey Up, Jowett and Rhubarb that reference the Yorkshire heritage.
There are big tubs in which to soak, as well as toiletries by Paris-based Yorkshireman James Heeley, super-comfy beds, TV, wi-fi and Nespresso machines.
And those retro pre-war radios? They’re authentic but have been given a 21st Century once-over so your own music can be streamed via Bluetooth. Forget the vicar – the only thing being murdered is my waistline, but frankly that’s down to my lack of willpower. I vow to put on my walking boots and get some fresh air – after one more scone. The USP: A restaurant with rooms in a picturesque spot for a relaxing gourmet weekend. The rooms: They’re luxurious but homely with retro and modern touches. The food: Imaginative British fare. Try the smoked hare or charred venison. Make sure you leave room for a hearty breakfast of kedgeree, devilled lamb’s kidneys, kippers with lemon butter, or a Yorkshire grill.