If you want to enjoy these fab veg at their very best there’s only one way to do it The sweetest peas
THEY might be tiny but peas are big on taste. Crisp, sweet and with a succulent texture, perfectly fresh peas are a gastronomic delight. For me, one of the highlights of summer is taking a handful of pods from a bush, popping them open and tucking into the shiny green beads within seconds of picking.
Shop-bought peas, whether loose or sold in bags, are a poor substitute. Described as ‘ fresh’, their pods often contain big, hard and tough globules with a sour taste. The reason for this contrast in quality is age – the moment peas are harvested, sugars start turning to starch and the flavour deteriorates.
As a result, the only way to enjoy this taste sensation is to grow your own from scratch. Many gardeners sow seeds in spring for a succession of pods over summer, but you can steal a march on them by setting seeds in the ground this autumn, leading to pods that will ready for harvesting a month or so earlier. Seeds sown between September and mid- November will germinate within two to three weeks, with seedlings establishing before colder temperatures bring everything to a halt. The growth of young plants will accelerate in spring, culminating in vigorous, dense bushes that will be laden with pods from May.
Peas are an old food crop from the Mediterranean with excavations suggesting they’ve been cultivated since 7000 BC. They were popular among ancient Greeks, Romans and Persians, and considered sacred by Egyptians – in 1922, pea seeds were discovered in the tomb of Tutankhamun by Howard Carter.
The occupying Roman army introduced peas to our shores and they were an important part of our diet by the time the Normans invaded. Back then, peas were shelled and dried for use at a later date, and it wasn’t until the 16th Century that the wealthy started the fashion for cooking freshly picked peas.
Across t he pond, peas were the favourite veggie of Thomas Jefferson, third President of the United States. He grew 19 varieties in his garden and held an annual competition among his friends to see who could produce the earliest crop – the winner would host a dinner, including a dish of the winning peas.
Technically, there are two main types of pea – wrinkled and round. Wrinkled varieties are best left for sowing in spring, as their seeds have craggy skin that can trap water, leading to them rotting in cold soil. Round varieties are ideal for sowing in autumn – seeds have a smooth skin that sheds water and plants are hardier.
Pea seeds will germinate readily when sown in a sunny, well-drained spot that has been improved by digging in plenty of garden compost or well-rotted manure. Make a shallow trench, 10in wide by 2in deep, and sow in two parallel lines, spacing seeds 2in apart. Fill the trough with soil and sprinkle with water.
Mice foraging for seeds can be a problem on allotments. A good way to thwart them is to start peas indoors, using a piece of plastic guttering. Drill drainage holes, fill with compost and pop in seeds. When seedlings are 4in tall, dig a narrow trench outdoors and slide the contents of the guttering into position.
In spring, add supports to prevent pea plants collapsing under their own weight. A few twiggy sticks set into the ground at regular intervals will suffice for compact varieties. If growing taller ones, place bamboo canes along the row and attach a sheet of support netting for them to clamber up.
Water plants regularly once flowers appear, especially during dry periods, and feed occasionally with a high-potash fertiliser once pods start to develop. Harvest pods with a sharp knife, taking often to encourage more to develop – those at the bottom will generally be the first to mature.
They were sacred in Egypt – and found in King Tut’s tomb