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MENTION cuttings and some gardeners are likely to break out in a cold sweat. As far as they’re concerned, propagating plants in this way requires specialist equipment, time- honed knowledge and the dexterity of a surgeon. In short, it’s a horticultural technique that is best left to professionals.
Well, there’s a grain of truth in that, as some types of cutting are undoubtedly tricky – but not hardwood cuttings of deciduous trees, shrubs and climbers. These are the easiest cuttings you can make. In fact, it’s almost as simple as removing a length of stem and sticking it in the ground to root.
They are known as hardwood cuttings because material is gathered in winter, when plants are dormant and growth has hardened. Roses, dogwoods, willows, buddleias, philadelphus, weigela, honeysuckle and jasmine are all suitable subjects, along with shrubby fruits such as figs, gooseberries and currants.
Remove a few, pencil-thick shoots from these plants with secateurs, and turn them into 6in to 9in cuttings by removing all side shoots. Then make a straight cut below a leaf joint at the bottom and a slanted cut at the top, above a pair of buds – the angled cut ensures that rain runs off, rather than rotting buds below. Stick cuttings vertically into the ground, 4in apart, leaving about a third exposed above the surface – another option is to set several cuttings into deep pots filled with John Innes No 1 compost. Leave for about a year before lifting and planting in their final positions.
Turning twigs into hardwood cuttings is not the only way to propagate plants during the winter months. There’s another, lesserknown technique known as root cuttings, which will deliver equally good results when carried out on a wide range of dormant trees, shrubs, perennials and herbs.
As its name implies, this method involves removing lengths of roots from underground, cutting them to size and inserting into pots, where they will form new roots and shoots.
In my experience, it’s highly effective if performed between November and late February, while plants are inactive.
Essentially, there are two different types of plant you can use for root cuttings: those with thick, fleshy roots such as acanthus, chicory, romney a, drumstick primulas and oriental poppies, and plants with thinner roots – this latter group includes phlox, Japanese anemones and hardy geraniums.
To propagate perennials with thicker roots, lift the clump and sever a few long roots as close to the crown as possible – choose only those that are white, healthy and about pencil thickness.
For trees and shrubs, dig a small hole close to the base of the plant, selecting roots that are close to the surface. Divide the root into 2in pieces, making a flat cut at the top or thicker end, and a sloping one below. Insert five into a 3in pot of compost, making sure the flat end is facing upwards – if planted upside down, the cutting might fail. When the top is level with the surface, cover with a thin layer of horticultural grit.
Plants with finer roots need different treatment. As they’re too flexible to be pushed upright into compost, place 2in to 3in- long pieces horizontally on the surface of 5in pots of compost. Set out an inch apart so they have plenty of space to develop – shoots will grow along the length of the cutting.
Place pot sin a cold frame, unheated greenhouse or front porch. Shoots will appear within a few weeks, but wait until roots poke their way out of the drainage holes in the base before splitting up the rootball and moving each cutting to its own pot. Plants should be ready for planting out by summer.
You don’t require the dexterity of a surgeon to do this