You’ve gotta dig allotments!
Taking one on can be daunting, but follow these rules and you’ll soon reap the rewards
ICAN clearly remember taking on my first allotment. The site secretary met me outside the sprawling area at a designated time and walked me through a labyrinth of well-tended spaces to my plot. After running through a few rules, he handed over a key to the front gate and left me to gaze at a carpet of London clay soil.
Close to the size of a tennis court, the plot was in great condition, as it had been cultivated for decades by the previous tenant. I was excited to get going as I’d been waiting almost a year for a plot to become available, but felt slightly apprehensive about how I would manage such a large patch of ground.
My mixed emotions are not unusual for first- time allotmenteers. Many eager newbies arriving at their plots this spring will be wondering how to get started. The situation is even more daunting if you’ve inherited a neglected patch that is covered in perennial weeds, such as brambles, bindweed or couch grass.
Well, don’t panic. If the plot is smothered in weeds, chop it all back and cover the ground with a tarpaulin or landscape material – it will immediately look less daunting. In my opinion, it’s even worth laying sheets on soil that’s in perfect condition, as it will prevent annual weed seeds from germinating.
As far as I’m concerned, a mistake made by many first- time allotment-holders is to take on too much too soon. So, unless you have the time to visit your plot on a daily basis to water, weed and maintain plants, you are better off using a fraction of the space with the aim of expanding slowly, year by year.
With this in mind, roll back the sheets to expose about a third of the plot and dig out weeds, making sure you get all the roots.
Next, turn over the soil with a spade, chopping up clods and hoiking out large stones. Finish by raking the soil backwards and forwards until the texture resembles coarse breadcrumbs.
After preparing t he ground, you’re ready to snap up seeds and young plants. Some crops require close attention but there are plenty that are foolproof. Among the best for beginners are strawberries, radish, beetroot, courgettes and French beans. Mixed salad leaves are another must, supplying pickings within 21 days. Most allotment gardeners grow their crops directly in the ground, but the use of raised beds is becoming increasingly popular. Apart from improving drainage for those with heavy soil, raised beds are easier to keep free of weeds, and the soil requires less upkeep as it is not compacted by foot traffic.
Beds can be constructed from old bricks, untreated railway sleepers or lengths of timber nailed to corner posts. They can be built to any dimensions, but a series of beds measuring 6 ½ft by 3½ ft are ideal, with paths in between wide enough to push a wheelbarrow along.
Fill with a mixture of topsoil and compost.
If you fancy getting on the allotment ladder, your first port of call should be your local council. Most have a dedicated allotment officer who will be able to tell you whether there are any vacancies on sites nearby. Sadly, many are oversubscribed, with long waiting lists, but, if you’re prepared to travel, you might strike lucky.
In my area, rent is charged by the square metre. A 76 square metre plot costs £40 a year, while a 126 square metre one will set you back £64. Traditionally, the spaces used to cover 253 square metres, but when these larger ones are given up, councils are dividing them into smaller ones to help meet demand.
Once you take on a plot, the council expects it to be kept tidy and free of weeds. In order to ascertain its state, it’ll be inspected regularly, often on a monthly basis. If it’s not up to scratch, you’ll receive a warning letter – fail to act and the council is likely to repossess the plot.