The Mail on Sunday

Why this is NOT the time to give up custard creams

An impassione­d message to the nannying gurus telling us to stick to ultra-low- calorie diets during the crisis

- Eve By Simmons

IT’S a very British tradition that offers comfort in even the darkest of times – settling down with a cup of tea and a biscuit. It certainly helps in my house – when, after the daily Government briefing, my partner and I head to the kitchen for a cuppa and a chocolate digestive.

So when it was announced last week that food packages being shipped out to vulnerable Britons would include a packet of custard creams, I thought: too right.

But some well-known diet gurus seem to disagree.

One, an NHS doctor no less, writing on Twitter, referred to the decision as ‘utterly disgracefu­l’ and ‘absolutely shocking’.

‘ At a time when vulnerable people need to be eating nutritious food more than ever [we] give them ultra-processed junk instead,’ he tweeted.

He wasn’t the only one. A flurry of tweeters, including one named @dietdoc, added: ‘People should send it back. I’d rather fast than eat that garbage.’

Ministers couldn’t have picked a worse time to ply Britons with ‘junk’, they said. After all, emerging evidence suggests that obesi t y may i ncrease the risk of Covid-19 complicati­ons.

Their suggestion for freeing up vital hospital beds? A national weight-loss regime. One intensive care doctor, working in Iceland, advised: ‘Eat minimally processed food… restrict intake of free sugars and refined starches.’

According to popular cardiologi­st and diet book author Dr Aseem Malhotra – who made it on to Sky News with his message – ‘What you eat is going to impact your immune system.’

He a dvi s e s ‘ c urbi ng ul t r a - processed food... cutting snacks, crisps and chocolate to a bare minimum.’

Instead, we should be ‘ eating nutritious whole foods.’

Doing so could, he suggests, have an impact within a ‘ matter of weeks to months’.

But I’m struggling to accept that now, when millions are struggling to buy any food at all, is an appropriat­e time to embark on a restrictiv­e diet.

And when I asked experts who have spent their careers studying how people eat, and the effect nutrition has on our health both when we’re well and seriously ill, they agreed.

MALNUTRITI­ON DAMPS DOWN IMMUNITY

THE biscuit-bashers are correct in at least one respect – obesity does seem to be associated with a higher risk of suffering complicati­ons if coronaviru­s strikes.

About 70 per cent of the sickest Covid-19 patients – those in need of intensive care – were overweight or obese, according to one recent study. A similar pattern emerged in Wuhan, China, where obese individual­s are classed as a vulnerable group. Keith Neal, Emeritus Professor of the Epidemiolo­gy of Infectious Diseases at the University of Nottingham, says: ‘ Obese people are more likely to have type 2 diabetes and high blood pressure, both of which tamper with the immune response. Even those without associated health conditions may have excess fat in the lung cavities, which increases respirator­y complicati­ons.’ According to one influentia­l social media commentato­r, Ivor Cummins, author of Eat Rich, Live Long, rapid weight-loss diets are a viable method of reducing hospital admissions. Cummins, who is an engineer by trade, tweeted to his 49,000 followers: ‘You can drop your diabetic physiology within a shockingly short time with the correct diet and lifestyle interventi­ons. This cannot fail to help mitigate this crisis. #Coronaviru­s.’

And on Sky News, Dr Malhotra said: ‘We know that type two diabetes can be put into remission in up to 50 per cent of cases within months of changing lifestyle.’

The only evidence- based diet that can ‘reverse’ diabetes involves living on 800- calorie meal- replacemen­t drinks for a number of weeks.

But what do the medical experts say? Unsurprisi­ngly, there’s a general consensus that now is not the time. Prof Neal says: ‘The malnutriti­on caused by these diets would cause an increase in severe cases… it would dramatical­ly reduce the immune system’s response.

‘It’s why infectious diseases rip through refugee camps.’

And dietician Katherine Kimber says: ‘ Research shows yo- yo dieting can increase the risk of cardiovasc­ular disease. You don’t want to increase your risk now when there’s limited access to medical profession­als.’

The risks aren’t only physical. Half of all Britons have seen their mental health impacted by the pandemic, according to a nationwide study. Adding restrictiv­e or rigid behaviours seems a recipe for psychologi­cal disaster.

Kimber says: ‘ It’s at times of i nstability and anxiety when we are most likely to search for something to control. Sometimes that’s food because it’s the only method of coping we have.

‘But starting a diet at a time of anxiety, exhaustion and excess pressure can easily trigger a host of very complex psychologi­cal issues around food.

‘Dieting is one of the leading risk factors for eating disorders – especially in times of stress.’

And any change you make now is unlikely to last for very long.

‘Behaviour changes stick when they fit with your regular, daily routine,’ adds top dietician Luci Daniels. ‘ But this is not a normal situation.’

OLDER PEOPLE MUST EAT TO STAY HEALTHY

MANY experts are more concerned that soon, or even right now, millions of people simply won’t have enough to eat to keep them healthy.

Before coronaviru­s hit, t he number of malnourish­ed, older Britons was already staggering.

NHS figures released last year showed that one i n ten over65-year-olds were at risk of starving to death. The Government currently advises t hose who are over 70 – and therefore at increased risk of severe Covid-19 – to be ‘particular­ly stringent’ in following social distancing guidelines. That means, if possible, ‘speak to others to help you make arrangemen­ts for the delivery of food’. But according to Age UK, r oughly half of al l over- 75s live on their own, and 12 per cent have no one to do the shopping for them.

Even if getting an online supermarke­t delivery slot were possible, half of 75-year-olds never use the internet.

On Wednesday, food bank executive Sonya Johnson reported an unpreceden­ted number of older adults going without food.

She said: ‘We have older people saying to us: ‘I haven’t eaten for a couple of days because I don’t have any food in.’

The most sensible diet for these adults is one that increases food intake – not restricts it.

Lesley Carter, from Age UK’s malnutriti­on taskforce, says: ‘One of the most important things older people can do to protect their health is to eat enough. In the coming weeks we expect to see hundreds of thousands stop eating. Either they won’t have access to food, their home- help won’t be there to prepare it or they’ll be miserable and lose their appetite.

‘ The frailer people are, the more vulnerable they will be to the infection. Our advice to everyone right now is to eat food that makes them satisfied and happy.’

And if that happens to include a couple of custard creams, then so be it.

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