Charmed by this jumble of joy
VISITING Shrewsbury is like taking a crash course in England’s architectural history. In the charming Shropshire market town, looped almost entirely by the River Severn, timber-framed medieval buildings rub shoulders with Gothic churches, grand Elizabethan houses and Regency inns.
Who knows, maybe the evolution of architectural species gave local boy Charles Darwin some ideas…
Historic pedigree goes way back here, as demonstrated in 2018 when local metal detectorist Bob Greenaway unearthed a 3,000-yearold sun pendant of pure gold. It is on display at the Shropshire Museum & Art Gallery and joins a Bronze Age exhibition at the British Museum in February.
The family-owned Lion & Pheasant is another joyful jumble of heritage features ranging across the lovingly restored 16th Century building. Owner and interior designer Rachael Chidlow has done a cracking job. Far from the cramped, dark interiors you often find in period properties, the hotel is an airy blend of white walls and limed-oak beams, complemented by low sofas and clusters of Scandichic chairs. No wonder the bar is packed with locals each night.
We love our romantic Loft Suite, tucked into the beamed eaves with a sprawling bed overlooked by a mezzanine-set slipper bath.
And dinner in the candlelit dining room is equally romantic. Our creamy cured salmon starter is followed by deliciously tender duck breast with black garlic and showstopping 21-day matured Shropshire beef with mushroom duxelles. For dessert we had a moreish kind of deconstructed Black Forest gateau.
The Lion & Pheasant sits on Shrewsbury’s steep high street, which not only showcases dozens of the town’s 800 listed buildings, but a thriving community of independent cafes, shops and artists.
Grabbing bikes from Shrewsbury Ebike Hire, we follow a trail out through The Quarry: a 29-acre, 16th Century park whose spectacular autumn colours are partially courtesy of legendary celebrity gardener Percy Thrower, who was parks superintendent for 28 years. We cycle out on to Shropshire Union Canal towpath, discovering medieval villages tucked into glorious countryside. Shrewsbury certainly is a real treasure.
The USP: A historic, stylish base from which to explore Shrewsbury’s heritage architecture.
The rooms: Elegant and unfussy, each of the 22 bright, airy rooms and four self-catering apartments has bags of original features complemented by neutral silks, linen and Scandi-chic decor.
The food: Local suppliers are given hero status across all menus, from Severn & Wye Smokery fish at breakfast to Corbetts’ apple glazed pork tenderloin at dinner.
Jennifer Cox B&B from £150 per room per night (lionandpheasant.co.uk). Ebikes cost £35 for a half-day hire from shrewsburyebikehire. co.uk. For more information about Shropshire, go to visitshropshire.co.uk.