The Mail on Sunday

‘Stunner’ Jane ...and a VERY bohemian love triangle

- KATHRYN HUGHES

How We Might Live Suzanne Fagence Cooper Quercus £30 )))))

In June 1860, William Morris and his bride Jane moved into Red House, a magical domestic space on the Kent-London border built to his exact specificat­ions. Its steeply gabled roofs and romantic oriel windows owed everything to William’s love of the revived Gothic style. As his friend, the painter D.G. Rossetti, reported, the end effect was ‘more a poem than a house’.

This, though, was not simply a rich man’s stab at playing medieval lords and ladies. William Morris planned to share his earthly paradise with his close friends Rossetti and Edward Burne-Jones and their wives. Rejecting fusty Victorian convention­s, these young people would live communally, working alongside each other as artists, lovers and friends. They would write, they would paint, they would make beautiful objects and tend the exquisite gardens. And luckily, since William was born wealthy, there would be servants on hand to make the beds and do the washing-up.

It would be easy to mock, and plenty of contempora­ries did make snide remarks about these idealistic twentysome­things attempting to live as though they had just stepped out of Camelot. But William was deadly serious in his ambition to turn away from the ugly mass production and spendspend-spend culture of Victorian England and live in a more mindful way. Red House was decorated with hand-made objects and much of the food came seasonally from the kitchen garden. And nobody was more central to this project of ‘how we might live’ than William’s beautiful teenage bride, Jane.

In this lyrical book, art historian Suzanne Fagence Cooper retells the story of how William and Jane Morris, that most unlikely of couples, tried, and failed, and tried again to live according to these new ideals. The details of how they met are well known. He was a newly graduated Oxford student who had returned to paint murals on the walls of the swanky Union Library. She was the slum-dwelling daughter of a drunk and violent ostler who made her living as a college servant. By marrying Jane, William set in motion a Cinderella-like transforma­tion.

Jane is reported as saying later in life that ‘I never loved him’. But Cooper is keen that we should not see her as a cheap gold-digger. Highly intelligen­t, well-read and the maker of exquisite embroidery, Jane was as excited as her fiance at the prospect of creating a life in which, to paraphrase William, they would have nothing in their house that was not either useful or beautiful.

Jane’s designs – all swirling lilies and ripe pomegranat­es – became a key component of the William Morris aesthetic, especially his famous wallpaper. When, later, they opened a shop on London’s Oxford Street, Jane’s embroidere­d pieces were key to getting customers over the threshold.

Of course, the Morrises’ life together was not simply one of riverside picnics and medieval madrigals. Communal living could easily degenerate into ugly, jealous scenes. Jane had a long affair with her husband’s mentor Rossetti, who quickly became obsessed with her. It is, though, thanks to Rossetti that we have a full record of the extraordin­ary physical impact of Jane Morris on Victorian aesthetic ideals. In paintings including Proserpine (1874) and Blue Silk Dress (1868), Rossetti shows us the Pre-Raphaelite ‘stunner’ (to use his slightly derogatory term) in all her magnificen­ce. Here is Jane’s swanlike neck, her luscious bee-stung lips and, of course, that extraordin­ary waterfall of ebony curls. Crucially, though, Jane has made her own magnificen­t costumes, in effect becoming a co-producer of these iconic images.

It’s clear that Jane didn’t relish being the centre of attention, not least because she feared gossip about her affair with Rossetti. But it is also apparent, says Cooper, that she comported herself with self-possession and dignity, transcendi­ng any embarrassm­ent about her humble origins. In adult life her friends included aristocrat­s such as Lady Rosalind Howard as well as Georgie BurneJones, who became ‘Lady Burne-Jones’ when her husband was made a baronet.

In fact, Burne-Jones becoming ‘Sir Edward’ was one of the times when the Morrises’ ideals of communal living came closest to rupture. William was a passionate socialist. Much of his 50s was spent travelling around the country with Eleanor Marx, encouragin­g the working men of industrial Britain to

revolt against their mean and cramped conditions. Jane was less politicall­y active, not least because she had the responsibi­lity of a disabled daughter, but she invested a great deal of time in looking after her husband’s workforce, making sure that everyone was rested and well fed. She was a glorious cook and Cooper gives us several of her recipes for such delights as ‘Haricot Bean Soup’ and ‘Cornish Pasties’.

The one disappoint­ment in this enjoyable book is that it contains hardly any illustrati­ons. It would have been lovely to see, as well as read about, the wonderful experiment in living that Jane and William Morris set in motion. For despite the inevitable stumbles, they embodied a vision of the environmen­tally conscious, low-spend lifestyle that speaks to so many of us today.

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 ?? ?? MUSE: Portrait by Rossetti of Jane Morris, top left. Inset: Her husband William. Top right: Rossetti’s Proserpine (1874). Above: The Red House, and blue plaque, above left
MUSE: Portrait by Rossetti of Jane Morris, top left. Inset: Her husband William. Top right: Rossetti’s Proserpine (1874). Above: The Red House, and blue plaque, above left

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