Kitchen Garden

MARJORAM

With the approach of autumn, I have been reviewing the state of my perennial herbs. The rosemary bush is getting woody, but I bought a prostrate rosemary plant last year which is growing steadily. The thyme and the chives need cutting back, the bronze fennel has got too tall yet again, and the mint should stay green until November. The lovage and tarragon need little attention: they will die down and come back next spring. And then there is the marjoram, a herb that grows prolifically here but which I find a bit confusing.

All marjorams have the species name origanum, but only one – Origanum vulgare, the so-called wild marjoram – is known as oregano. This is, I think, the one that grows in our garden, with straight stems to a height of up to two feet and pink flowers in late summer. But then I read that pot marjoram

( Origanum onites) is similar in appearance, and both are perennials.

There are dwarf pot marjorams, which are less straggly than mine at this time of year, and can make attractive edging plants. Sweet or knotted marjoram ( Origanum majorana) is usually grown from seed as a half-hardy annual and produces white or pale mauve flowers on stems about eight inches tall.

Having probably failed to resolve the confusion over marjoram, I would say that seeds sold as oregano will be the wild marjoram, more strongly flavoured than the others. And I am told that the leaves become more pungent when dried, which is how they are often used in Italian cooking. In the Middle East za’atar, a spice mix of various herbs, is also the name of a member of the origanum family popular in both Israeli and Arab kitchens. But it is not suited to our climate.

My plan is to cut back hard most of the wild marjoram and dig up the plants that have invaded a geranium bed. Next spring I’ll sow or plant a golden variety, and keep one in a pot on the terrace near the house.