On the Road: Rick Stein

Chef and restaurateur Rick Stein tells Louise Flind about where to eat the freshest fish in Britain – and the joys of rotten, Icelandic fish

Is there something you really miss when you’re away? Padstow – I enjoy the town, the estuary and the peacefulness. In winter, it’s slightly melancholic in a nice way.

Are you a surfer? I swim every day, really. I still like to catch a wave or two.

Do you travel light? I just take a small briefcase and really quite a modest suitcase, unlike my wife…

Favourite destination? La Colombe d’or Hotel, Saint-paul-de-vence.

Earliest childhood holiday memories? My earliest memories are of Cornwall. The earliest foreign holiday, when I was about seven, was to Ireland, where it rained all the time. My sister and I were a little alarmed by the donkeys.

Where is the best place for fish in the world? Probably the West coast of the UK. We’re very lucky with the continental shelf and the Gulf Stream. We have an enormous variety of fish and shellfish and I wouldn’t say that just because I love where I live. Northern Spain and Portugal are very good, too.

Where can you buy the freshest fish in Britain – and in Cornwall? I hate to say this, but I think in affluent parts of cities, where people are more demanding. So there’s my fish shop and Newlyn, where the main fish market is.

What fish should you order to make sure it’s the freshest? You can’t always order cod or plaice. Farmed fish is always going to be reliable, whatever you feel about it, because it’s prepared for sale at the last minute.

Is the Anthony Bourdain story about never ordering fish on a Monday true? I think it’s a bit overstated; generally fishermen are much more bound by the tides and the weather than by weekends.

Where’s your favourite place in Cornwall? Apart from Padstow, I love west Cornwall: West Penwith; south of St Ives down to Land’s End – a beautiful bit of coast which has a wonderfully ancient feel to it.

Is it unfair to call Padstow Padstein? I have just a restaurant and a couple of shops – so yes.

You have two restaurants in Australia – why Australia? I first went to Australia when I was 19. I’m now married to an Australian. I started going back in the early 1980s and found the cuisine really exciting. When offered a restaurant on the coast, I took it. I feel proud when they say I’m an honorary Australian.

Strangest thing you’ve ever eaten? I went to Iceland and we ate – or I ate: I don’t think the crew would touch it – a type of stinky fish. It was skate or shark that had been allowed to rot which is part of the pleasure.

Favourite international food? Based on where I’ve filmed, Indian, Mexican and Chinese.

Best cooks in the world? Cooks who come from a sophisticated cuisine – traditionally Goa had fantastic cooks and I also really rate Chinese cooks.

Nicest food in the world? Southern Italy, because it’s the sort of food I like eating the most. And the cooking in Provence is very special.

Best and worst experiences in restaurants when abroad? I’ve had endless best experiences. A meal in Tamil Nadu – a seafood curry in

Mahabalipuram – and a few months ago Le Bistro du Paradou, near Arles. I liked it because it’s very old-style French; there was no choice – a different main course every night.

Where did you go on your honeymoons? First time we went to Morocco and the second one – where did I go for the second one? I’ll be in so much trouble. Two nights in New Zealand and two nights in Paris.

Do you have a daily routine even when you’re away? Wherever I am, I tend to go for a swim first thing. In my new French TV series, I’m swimming in May, when the sea at Dieppe is really cold.

Do you make friends when you’re away? My wife does. She makes friends everywhere – I’m nothing like as gregarious as she is.

Do you have a go at the local language? I’m quite good at French.

Biggest headache? Transferring in American airports – I have no idea why they make everything so stressful.

What is the strangest place you’ve ever slept in – while being away? When I was very young, in Tennant Creek, Australia, in a smashed car in a wrecker’s yard.

Do you like coming home? I love coming home because I’m always thinking of things I’m going to do.

Top travelling tips? I would say, travel light – I can’t understand why people feel they need so much luggage.

Rick Stein’s Secret France is on BBC2