Autumn In Charleston
Solange Hando wanders through the vibrant streets of a timeless treasure in South Carolina.
SET at the confluence of three rivers, on an inlet of the Atlantic Ocean, Charleston in South Carolina has a generally pleasant climate and colourful festivals year round. The best time to visit is March to May, when the city is in full bloom, but you can expect crowds around Easter-time.
Late autumn is another quiet alternative, avoiding the summer heat and hurricane season. British Airways provide direct flights from London twice a week from March to October, and connections with partners the rest of the year.
The heart of town is on the peninsula, including the historic district and the French quarter, leading to the harbour, which is part of the Intracoastal Waterway.
City centre, riverside, harbour or beaches, accommodation here ranges from luxury hotels and resorts to quaint cottages and stylish villas.
From the lawns of Marion Square to its cobbled lanes and mysterious alleyways, the Old Town is delightful, with white walls or pastel colours, as in Rainbow Row, and wrought-iron gates and balconies looking down on glorious gardens.
If you like stepping back into the past, don’t miss Middleton Place, a National Historic Monument on the Ashley, 20 miles upstream from Charleston.
Discover the oldest landscaped gardens in America and visit the home of the Middleton family who owned the rice plantation.
Learn about craftsmen and slaves, tour the Stableyards and House Museum, and shop in the Garden Market.
Laced in waterways, flowers, trees and lawns, the grounds are superb, then round off the day in the Magnolia Plantation and Gardens, barely four miles down the road.
Relax along the tree-lined streets, gazing at poinsettia, crepe myrtle and palmetto – the city’s emblem – and in this “Holy City” bristling with steeples, bells will chime crystal clear all around.
Pop into the renovated Market Hall full of atmosphere and local crafts, such as the sweet-grass basketry handed down by African Gullah, or browse antiques and designer shops in King Street.
Known as the “Low Country”, this stretch of coast boasts a unique blend of cultures reflected in traditional “soul food”, a tasty mixture of Native American,
African, colonial and modern-day cuisine.
Seafood comes top of the list,with the most popular shrimps and grits (ground corn) or she-crab soup, adding a dash of sherry and lashings of cream. Or, for a snack, sample a few colossal shrimps or an oyster sandwich.
Meanwhile, hungry guests feast on barbecued meat with ladies’ fingers or collard greens, fried chicken in a secret recipe sauce, or a hearty Frogmore stew of boiled potatoes, corn, sausage and shrimps.
Dessert? Try sesame seed cookies, praline soufflé or the scrumptious hummingbird cake, made of pineapple, banana, pecan and cinnamon.
In Charleston all roads lead to the water, be it White Point, the tip of the peninsula named after the sunbleached oyster shells which once covered it, the East Battery or the Waterfront Park – where a pineapple fountain symbolises hospitality.
Stroll along the pier for wonderful views of the promenade fringed with villas and oleander, the elegant Ravenel Bridge and boats sailing down to the ocean.
No trip to Charleston is complete without a visit to its islands, a short drive from downtown over a bridge or two, whether you want to explore or lounge on vast sweeping sands.
Wander around the dunes in Kiawah, see the historic fort on Sullivan, join an eco-tour off the Isle of Palms or watch the surfers on Folly Beach, “the Edge of America”.
So close yet a world away is Wadmalaw Island, a quiet country place with traditional farms and a tea plantation.
Seventy miles or so to the southwest, Beaufort is a lovely town surrounded by the Sea Islands.
Among them is Hunting Island, now a conservation area proud of its wildlife, jungle-like trails and panoramic lighthouse, which survived over 100 storms on a wild beach.
Back in town, enjoy the river views and glistening yachts, the historic centre and the wagon rides in the Old Town, all lush lawns and clapboard villas, apple green, pale blue, lemon and more.
A harbour cruise is the perfect way to escape, maybe on the Charleston Princess or Spirit Of The Low Country
or, for a real thrill, there’s the Schooner Pride, a magnificent tall ship. Watch dolphins, pelicans and gulls, marvel at the city’s skyline and get close to the historic Fort Sumter.
Across the river, Cooper Mount Pleasant boasts Patriots Point Naval and Maritime Museum displaying exhibits on land and water.
Among the highlights here is the USS Yorktown, or Fighting Lady,
which served in World War II and also rescued astronauts from the sea.
Mount Pleasant is a bustling suburban area, yet nature lovers will find walking and cycling trails and, beyond the Old Village and Farmers Market, the gorgeous Shem Creek.
Fishermen unload their catch and restaurants beckon at the water’s edge, but in the nearby marshlands, boardwalks entice birdwatchers and romantic couples.
The sunsets here are spectacular, with panoramic views over Charleston Harbor.
Travel restrictions may still be in place. Please check latest advice
before planning your trip.
For more information on Charleston, visit www. charlestoncvb.com or call Charleston’s Visitor Center on 001 (800) 774 0006.