Sandaig
On the Ordnance Survey map it’s known as Sandaig, but to author Gavin Maxwell, who lived here with his pet otters in the 1960s, this was Camusfearna.
This remote, island-sheltered bay with its finely crushed shell beaches was to provide him with the inspiration to write his most famous work, “Ring Of Bright Water”.
To reach the start of the walk to Sandaig takes us over the spectacular Mam Ratagan Pass. The Pass climbs high above Loch Duich with unequalled views to the Five Sisters of Kintail and Ben Fhada before continuing on through the village of Glenelg.
Just watch for the Sandaig forestry footpath sign on the right. Thankfully, the forest has recently been felled and we can once more enjoy the open views as we head west and make for the coast.
And what a view there is from the brow of the hill overlooking the beaches and Sandaig Islands. If you can time your visit to coincide with low tide, you’ll be able to walk across to one of the islands. Keep an eye on the water, though.
On the grassland behind the beach a large boulder marks the resting place of Gavin Maxwell, and closer to the river Allt Mor Shantaig another stone commemorates his pet otter, Edal. Edal perished in the fire that destroyed Gavin’s cottage in 1968. The inscription reads Whatever joy she gave to you, give back to Nature.
Keep your eyes open and you may well catch sight of wild otters swimming in the bay.
As we wander around the quiet bay, far from anywhere, it’s easy to see how Gavin fell in love with this lonely place. Allow plenty time to explore the bay, its island and hidden beaches before returning by the same route.