Taste of tango, steak and Maradona

With a new direct route Sarah Marshall explores Argentina’s capital

Often referred to as the Paris of South America, Buenos Aires has always enjoyed close links with Europe; waves of Italian immigrants populated the port city in the 19th and 20th centuries and much of its resplendent architecture echoes trends from this side of the Atlantic. Now connections are even closer, with the launch of the continent’s first direct low-cost flight service from Norwegian, linking the Argentinian capital with London. Blighted by dictatorships, spiralling inflation and angry protests, the city bears a colourful past. But nothing has ever managed to dampen its spirit, expressed through impassioned tango clinches, riotous football crowds and the poetic fantasies of literary greats, like Jorge Borges. As if any excuse is needed, here are seven even more wonderful reasons to visit Latin America’s most enchanting city.

THE BUILDINGS ARE BEYOND BEAUTIFUL

Much of Buenos Aires’ romance is cemented in its belle epoque architecture, intended to emulate the fashionable grandeur of Paris. One of the finest examples is Teatro Colon in the city’s downtown, inaugurated in 1908. Muses from Greek mythology dance around a skylight in the eye-popping entrance, and the Golden Hall, modelled on Versailles, glints with 22ct gold leaf. Ornate occasionally spills into ostentatious, but nonetheless, it’s a glamorous window on the past. Guided 50-minute tours take place every day except Saturdays (ARS $300/£11; teatrocolon. org.ar). Or experience acoustics ranked amongst the best in the world by attending an opera or classical music concert - check their Facebook page for news of free events (March to December). Tip: Although far from the action, seats in ‘the hen house’ (the Gods) have the best acoustics. Expect to pay from ARS $50/£2 for a ticket.

EVITA MADE HER MARK HERE

The First Lady Of Argentina from 1946 until her death in 1952, Eva Peron - or Evita - captured the hearts of working class socialists and is still a symbol of the country’s class divide. A museum, Museo Evita (web.museoevita.org.ar; ARS $120/£4), in Palermo, charts her life history and stylish wardrobe, and her final resting place is part of the most visited‘ attractio’ in the city. Wild legends lurk in the shad ows of Recoleta Cemetery, a laby rinth of grand graves popular wi street photographers and story hunters. Tucked discreetly between marble mausoleums ho ing wealthier bodies, Peron wa ironically laid he real ongs id ehr worst enemies - a decision mad during the 1976 military dictatrship. Her sombre, s imp lee pit ah is easy to miss, but follow the crowds and you can’t go wron

IT’S THE BIRTHPLACE OF TANG

While not so popular with yo portenos (people from the po nickname given to locals), tan is still synonymous with Buen Aires. Although expensive an filled with foreigners, a dinner show is the best way to see the in action. One of the most dra matic is at Esquina Carlos Ga (esquinacarlosgardel.com.ar $2290.40/£81.50 for dinner an a show) in CABA, opposite an deco shopping centre, which once the city market.