The Peterborough Evening Telegraph

Great French wines to savour

Looks to the wine capital of the world, where the classics continue to captivate

- Sam Wylie-Harris

If for some extraordin­ary reason – and weare living in extraordin­ary times, afterall – you could only drink wine from one country for the rest of eternity, chances are France would be right up there.

It has it all – as the famous saying goes: “Burgundy for kings, champagne for duchesses, claret for gentleman.”

Although, you might think the source of this quote must have got starstruck and stopped in their tracks, with everything else in the offing – crisp Chablis, ravishing Rhône reds, pretty Provençal pinks, and far too many more to mention.

For a snapshot of French regions to know about, with consistenc­y their middle name, we’ve rounded up some favourite styles we’d be happy to come back to time and time again – come rain, shine or lockdown…

1. Arnaud Robert Brut Champagne NV, £24 Tesco stores

A celebratio­n of life itself and one of the country’s greatest exports – which everyone wants to mimic but few, if any, can get close to – champagne can only come from Champagne. And if you’re a stickler for floral and brioche notes, a dry and creamy palate which hints at apple and peach with the perfect balance of citrusy freshness, this new listing at Tesco is the liquid gold for you – and bang on the money.

2. Abbotts & Delaunay Viognier 2018, Pays D’Oc, £9.99 each or £7.99 Mix Six, Majestic

Among the finest French grapes, one of the many virtues of viognier (the best hail from Condrieu in the northern Rhône) are its enticing aromas.

This offers exotic honeysuckl­e, apricot and violet notes twinned with creamy apricot and succulent peach flavours, underlined by ginger spice.

Rich, round and utterly delicious, it’s the perfect parcel from the sunny Languedoc.

3. Tesco Finest Chablis 2019, £13, Tesco

A bright Burgundy blonde and model of unoaked chardonnay, this citrus scented Chablis has the all-important stony minerality (derived from the mineral-rich, chalky soil) we look for, with elegant citrus and apple flavours backed by refreshing acidity. Stylish and poised with a fine, persistent finish, it’s one for oysters and shellfish. 4. Saint Max Rosé 2019, Provence, £40.50 for six bottles, Justerini & Brooks

This is a rosé for all seasons, especially when you’re in the need for a little Provençal pick-me-up and escapism (if anything, the label itself makes you want to sail into Saint Tropez, drop anchor and never leave). The palest, prettiest peach, it’s round and refreshing in an easy drinking style, with ripe red berry aromas and seductive red fruit flavours flowing throughout, with just right acidity, sense of place and lots of appeal. 5. Berry Bros & Rudd Good Ordinary Claret Label by Poppy Lennox 2018, Bordeaux, £11.95, Berry Bros & Rudd

A perennial favourite, there’s lots to love about Berry’s bestsellin­g and, without doubt, best-value Bordeaux.

Fortunatel­y, this also has the qualities to be enjoyed now (so you don’t need the patience of a cellar master), with its beautiful depth of ripe fruit – think a wealth of cassis, blackcurra­nt and brambly fruit, with warm, smoky aromas and velvety smooth finish.

It’s their fifth limitededi­tion label, and only 15,000 bottles are available with the artist’s eyecatchin­g typographi­c design.

6. Cuvée du Vatican Reserve de l’Abbé Cotes du Rhône 2019, £11.99, Laithwaite’s

A southern French fruit bomb and the Rhône’s answer to rich, generous New World reds, this sumptuous, grenacheba­sed blend screams sun-soaked vineyards and Mediterran­ean climate. Jam-packed with flavour, it’s richly concentrat­ed with aromas of plum and cherry preserves, similar fruity flavours in a voluptuous style, with Herbes de Provence sitting alongside sweet spice.

7. Morrisons The Best Châteauneu­f-du-Pape 2018, £16, Morrisons

Made in partnershi­p with Ogier, one of the appellatio­n’s star producers, this Châteauneu­f-du-Pape oozes charm.

With quality across a wide range of Ogier’s wines, here we have fantastic concentrat­ion, finesse and elegance.

It’s a soft and seductive wine that evolves beautifull­y in the glass, dark fruit aromas and aromatic herbs lead to deep raspberry, prune and ripe, raisiny fruit on a velvety smooth palate, with a long, seamless finish.

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